Sediment transport and beach morphodynamics induced by free long waves, bound long waves and wave groups

Baldock, Tom E.; Manoonvoravong, P.; Pham, Kim Son

doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2010.05.006

Cited by 55 publications

(42 citation statements)

References 52 publications

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“…It has been hypothesized in the past that sandbar generation could be the result of sediment convergence at the nodes or antinodes of infragravity standing waves [ Carter et al , 1973; Holman and Bowen , 1982]. Despite recent attempts to evaluate the influence of long waves on sediment transport in the surf and swash zones [e.g., Baldock et al , 2010], it is difficult to isolate their role from other effects such as induced breaking point and wave height variations or short wave nonlinearities modifications. In our experiments, effects of infragravity waves on sediment transport in the shoaling and surf zones were not detected.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Sediment transport associated with morphological beach changes forced by irregular asymmetric, skewed waves

Grasso¹,

Michallet²,

Barthélemy³

2011

J. Geophys. Res.

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[1] The waveshape effects on sediment transport are investigated for cross-shore beach profile changes. This study is based on experiments performed in the Laboratoire des Ecoulements Géophysiques et Industriels wave flume for irregular waves. The interest of such experiments resides in presenting complex combinations of wave skewness and asymmetry in bed load, ripple, and sheet flow regimes. Net sediment transport rates on typical beach morphodynamics are analyzed in regard to wave skewness and asymmetry, undertow, and ripple occurrence. Onshore bar migration is mainly associated with onshore-directed sediment transport, whereas terrace profile and offshore bar formation correspond to offshore sediment transport. As for natural beaches, energetic (moderate) wave climates mostly induce offshore (onshore) sediment fluxes. For a given significant wave height, an increase (decrease) in the wave climate peak period is associated with an increase (decrease) in wave skewness and leads mostly to offshore (onshore) sediment fluxes. The experiments are fully characterized by unsteady behavior. Consequently, several conditions exhibit phase-lag effects where the sediment is mobilized by the wave crest and transported by the following trough, which produces a net offshore transport even for a weak undertow. The presence of ripples clearly contributes to enhance this behavior. An original concept, due to its application to skewed asymmetric irregular waves, presents the important interaction between wave nonlinearities driving the sediment fluxes. The net sediment transport rate under strongly skewed waves is either offshore directed due to phase-lag effects or onshore directed when the wave asymmetry is large enough. Both these mechanisms probably largely contribute to bar formation and migration.Citation: Grasso, F., H. Michallet, and E. Barthélemy (2011), Sediment transport associated with morphological beach changes forced by irregular asymmetric, skewed waves,

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Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Sediment transport associated with morphological beach changes forced by irregular asymmetric, skewed waves

Grasso¹,

Michallet²,

Barthélemy³

2011

J. Geophys. Res.

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“…The influence of free infragravity waves on sediment transport on beaches is not well known. Baldock et al (2010Baldock et al ( , 2011 found that free infragravity motions tend to lead to more reflective (lower Gourlay number) wave conditions overall, and that beach response is different under wave groups compared to monochromatic waves with the same energy. Therefore it should be noted that neither the SWAN model nor the equilibrium transport model adopted here resolve these processes.…”

Section: Sediment Transport Modelmentioning

confidence: 97%

Impact of sea-level rise on cross-shore sediment transport on fetch-limited barrier reef island beaches under modal and cyclonic conditions

Baldock

Golshani

Atkinson

et al. 2015

Marine Pollution Bulletin

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“…After reshaping such a localized erosion occurred only in the submerged part (x-locations below 2 m), the emerged part closer to the shoreline remained undisturbed (from xlocations between 2 and 4 m) and the upper part of the emerged beach experienced a minor accretion (x shoreward than 4 m). Such changes in bottom evolution before and after reshaping are reflected in a dramatic reduction in sediment transport rates obtained from bed level changes (Baldock et al, 2010). Computed sediment transport rates obtained by this means, before and after reshaping, are displayed in figure 5.…”

Section: Resultsmentioning

confidence: 98%

Influence of Swash Zone Morphology on Offshore Bar Migration

Alsina

Caceres

Brocchini

et al. 2011

The Proceedings of the Coastal Sediments 2011

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The present study shows new experimental data aimed to analyze the influence of the swash zone processes on the overall beach dynamics, with special emphasis on offshore bar migration events. The presented results were obtained in a large-scale flume facility in which two sets of experiments characterized by two different beach-face morphology conditions were conducted. The results are compared in terms of bar behavior with previous similar experiments. It is shown how flattening the emerged beach-face promotes a modification in the offshore outer bar migration which almost stops moving offshoreward. It is suggested that more dissipative swash conditions result in a variation in the wave-swash interactions reducing the amount of sediment carried off-shoreward to the surf zone. It is also suggested that a dissipative beach-face reduces the shoreline long-wave reflection, and promotes variations in the wave breaking intensity, though the latter is not noticeable in the computed significant wave height due to limitations in the available number of sensors.

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Sediment transport and beach morphodynamics induced by free long waves, bound long waves and wave groups

Cited by 55 publications

References 52 publications

Sediment transport associated with morphological beach changes forced by irregular asymmetric, skewed waves

Sediment transport associated with morphological beach changes forced by irregular asymmetric, skewed waves

Impact of sea-level rise on cross-shore sediment transport on fetch-limited barrier reef island beaches under modal and cyclonic conditions

Influence of Swash Zone Morphology on Offshore Bar Migration

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