Sensory analysis of cosmetic powders: personal care ingredients and emulsions

Objective Explore the impact of powder flow properties such as flow energy and compressibility on the performance characteristics of foundation powders such as cake strength and pay‐off. Methods FT4 Powder Rheometer from Freeman Technology was utilized to explore various powder compositions. The three major tests performed were flowability test, compressibility test and shear cell test. Results The results highlight that the sample which has higher compressibility has the better cake strength, and the sample which requires lower total energy has better pay‐off. Particles or samples with lower total flow energy, should have easier flow, therefore, should have better pay‐off. Samples and components with higher compressibility, should hold the structure better, therefore, should have better cake strength. Talc has the highest compressibility and lowest flow energy. Foundation sample 5 has the highest concentration of talc and also has the best performance. Conclusion The lower the total flow energy, the easier it is for the powder to flow, and have better pay‐off. Powder compressibility correlates with cake strength which means that a sample with better compressibility consequently has the better cake strength. Samples 5 and 10 require less total flow energy, have lower shear stress, and higher compressibility, therefore, have better final performance. Both samples 5 and 10 have higher talc concentrations compared to other formulations.

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Designing high‐performance colour cosmetics through optimization of powder flow characteristics

Liu

Drakontis

Amin

2020

“…A lower number of articles have been published concerning the cosmetic powder. Those which did have highlighted some sensory attributes, such as softness, slipperiness and cushioning, characteristics of this product universe .…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Combining sensory and texturometer parameters to characterize different type of cosmetic ingredients

Vieira

Lavarde

Fréville

et al. 2020

Introduction Sensory properties have a great importance for cosmetics and personal care products. If literature permits to consult articles comparing different formulations on their sensory attributes, there are only a few articles concerning ingredients. Objective The overall objective of this study was to carry out an original study combining the sensory evaluation of different natures of ingredients, in order to initiate a sensory data set that could help researchers to identify differentiating sensory characteristics, as well as initiating a comparison between sensory data and texturometer instrumental measurements. Methods Oils, glycolic extracts, butter and starch were evaluated according to descriptive sensory analysis methodology with the help of panel of 25 experts. In order to compare responses obtained from the panel to instrumental measurements, texture analyzes were performed in compression traction model. Results Significant differences were detected in ten of the eleven evaluated sensory attributes, indicating that ingredients have distinct sensory profiles. The mainly discriminative attributes for the analyzed ingredients were: gloss, opacity, fluidity, freshness, whitening and oily residue. The oils are mostly related to oily residue and slipperiness while extracts are mostly related to gloss, fluidity and freshness attributes. Both Tapioca Starch and Shea Butter were related to non‐fluidity, opacity, and Tapioca Starch was related to freshness too. This study was completed by a texturometer analysis which lead to show the opposite correlation between the sensory attribute fluidity and the consistent index.

“…Powder ingredients are widely used in cosmetics as main constituents in loose (flow) and compact (pressed) powder make‐up [1, 2], where they may provide adhesiveness, smoothness, absorbency, coverage, or different sensory or visual attributes to skin and hair [3]. Powder ingredients are also commonly used in liquid formulations in which they can improve the look, feel, cohesion, viscosity or texture of the formulations.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Mesoporous magnesium carbonate for use in powder cosmetics

Bamford

Grahn

Århammar

et al. 2020

ObjectiveIn the present study, we describe the features and functional properties of a new powder cosmetic ingredient, an amorphous mesoporous magnesium carbonate (MMC, also named Upsalite®) with regard to physical characteristics as well as functional attributes.MethodsPhysical and functional characterization of MMC, as compared to other common powder cosmetic ingredients (silica, mica, kaolin, talc and starch), was assessed using nitrogen gas adsorption, powder X‐ray diffraction, particle size distribution by laser diffraction, scanning electron microscopy (SEM), and oil and moisture uptake tests. The powder ingredients were also applied on human skin and analysed for short‐ and long‐term mattifying effect, and a new method was developed to measure flashback effect. MMC was tested for skin irritation using an in vitro cell model as well as in vivo, through the Human Repeated Insult Patch Test on 50 human volunteers.ResultsMesoporous magnesium carbonate has a high surface area and pore volume. It has an excellent absorption capacity and can take up both oil and water simultaneously. It provides instant and long‐lasting mattifying effect when applied on human skin without drying or irritating skin and exhibits no measured flashback effect.ConclusionMesoporous magnesium carbonate has good sensory and visual characteristics as well as excellent absorbing and mattifying properties, suggesting that it has great potential to replace other powder ingredients currently used as fillers and absorbers in powder cosmetics.