Silhouette and Handle Design of Silk Chirimen Fabrics for Women^|^prime;s Thin Dress Based on the Mechanical Properties

Abstract

The purpose of this paper is to establish a basis for silhouette and handle design of traditional Japanese silk chirimen fabrics for Western-style women's thin dresses. We collected 10 chirimen kimono fabrics with different crepe structures to clarify the fabric characteristics. The mechanical and surface properties of the fabrics were measured by using the KES-FB system. The primary hand values of chirimen fabrics were obtained by an objective evaluation method developed by Kawabata. Silhouette formability was investigated by using the silhouette classification equation with fabric mechanical data. The tactile feel of chirimen fabrics was assessed by 60 female students.Large values for the mean deviation of the coefficient of friction (MMD) and compression linearity (LC) were observed in chirimen fabrics as compared with women' s thin dresses (n＝120). In terms of the primary hand values, high Koshi and low Shinayakasa were identified as distinctive features of the chirimen fabrics. Applying the silhouette type for Western-style garments, the chirimen fabrics can form drape-type or hari (anti-drape) -type silhouettes. The subjective hand values of softness, smoothness, and preference with regard to chirimen fabrics were closely related to the small value of thickness (T0), which can be used as a key parameter for the design of chirimen fabric.

Infection Prevention Mask Consisting of Nanofiber Filter and Habutae Silk Fabrics

“…It has been vaguely said by word of mouth that silk masks are good for the skin, but this result is supporting evidence. This may be related to the facts that silk fibers have a low coefficient of friction [ 20 ] the fiber diameter is adequate, they do not irritate the skin and silk is biocompatible.…”

Characterization of optical properties of traditional Japanese fabrics

“…The relation between weave structure, handling performance, and mechanical properties has been studied for traditional Japanese fabrics such as pongee (Tsumugi), 1 silk, and cotton crepe (Chirimen). 2,3 Furthermore, a technique for producing simulated Japanese traditional costumes has been used to accurately render the fabric's texture by using light reflection measurement data obtained from the omnidirectional anisotropic reflectance measurement system. 4 We expect the visual impression to be affected primarily by the reflection of light from the fabric surface.…”

Effect of Crêpe Texture on Tensile Properties of Cotton Fabric under Varied Relative Humidity

“…These findings are useful for achieving the required crinkly design with respect to the effect of twisted yarn shrinkage on fabric crinkling after finishing [7,8]. Yokura et al tried to establish the silhouette and handle design of silk chirimen fabrics for women's thin dresses on the basis of the mechanical properties of these fabrics [9]. In previous reports, the mechanical properties of crêpe fabrics have been measured under standard temperature and humidity conditions (e.g., around 20 ± 3°C and 65% RH).…”