Stability of cosmetic formulations containing esters of Vitamins E and A: Chemical and physical aspects

The aim of this work was the obtainment of Opuntia fícus-indica (L.) Mill extract for the development of cosmetic formulations and in vivo evaluation of its moisturizing effects. The formulations were tested for preliminary and accelerated stability. Organoleptic characteristics, pH values and rheological behavior were assessed. The evaluation of moisturizing efficacy of the emulsions formulated with 3.0% of Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 Isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7 containing 1.0 and 3.0% of O. ficus-indica hydroglycolic extract (EHG001) was performed using the capacitance method (Corneometer®) and the transepidermal water loss -TEWL evaluation (Tewameter®). The emulsions formulated were stable, exhibiting pseudoplastic and thixotropic behavior. The results of evaluation of moisturizing efficacy showed increased skin hydration after five hours by mainly increasing the skin barrier effect. The formulations containing 1.0 and 3.0% of EHG001 enhanced the skin barrier effect by reducing TEWL up to four hours after application. The results observed suggest that O. ficus-indica hydroglycolic extract may act through a humectant and occlusion mechanism.Uniterms Opuntia fícus indica/emulsion stability. Opuntia fícus indica/cosmetic efficacy. Skin/cosmetics/ use/efficacy

Section: Formulations Studiedmentioning

confidence: 89%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Use of Opuntia ficus-indica (L.) Mill extracts from Brazilian Caatinga as an alternative of natural moisturizer in cosmetic formulations

Damasceno¹,

Silva²,

Fernandes³

et al. 2016

“…In addition, the flow index values (Table II) were below 1.0 indicating pseudoplastic flow behavior (Castelli et al, 2008;Mendonça et al, 2009;Ferrari, Rocha-Filho, 2011), a desirable rheological property for cosmetics products (Guaratini, Gianeti, Maia Campos, 2006).…”

Section: Accelerated Stability Testsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Development of O/W emulsions containing Euterpe oleracea extract and evaluation of photoprotective efficacy

Daher

Fontes

Rodrigues

et al. 2014

Euterpe oleracea Mart. is a palm tree popularly known as açai, which is primarily found in northern Brazil. The açai's fruits contain anthocyanins, a class of polyphenols to which antioxidant properties have been attributed. The aim of this work was to develop O/W sunscreens emulsions containing açai glycolic extract (AGE) and to evaluate both their physical stability and photoprotective efficacy. Emulsions containing AGE and sunscreens were formulated using different types and concentrations of polymeric surfactant (acrylates/C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer and sodium polyacrylate). The influence of two rheology modifiers (polyacrylamide (and) C13-14/isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7 and Carbomer) on the stability was also investigated. Physical stability was evaluated by preliminary and accelerated studies. Emulsions with 1.0% sodium polyacrylate were stable and exhibited non-newtonian pseudoplastic behavior and thixotropy. Photoprotective efficacy was evaluated by in vivo Sun Protection Factor (SPF) and determination of Protection Factor of UVA (PF-UVA). When AGE was added to the sunscreen emulsion, no significant increase in the in vivo SPF value was observed. The emulsion containing AGE showed PF-UVA = 14.97, 1.69 of the SPF/PF-UVA ratio and a critical wavelength value of 378 nm, and may therefore be considered a sunscreen with UVA and UVB protection. Euterpe oleracea Mart. é uma palmeira popularmente conhecida como açaí, encontrada no norte do Brasil. O fruto do açaí apresenta em sua composição antocianinas, uma classe de polifenóis à qual é atribuída propriedade antioxidante. Os objetivos desse trabalho foram desenvolver emulsões fotoprotetoras O/A contendo extrato glicólico de açaí (AGE), avaliar a estabilidade física e avaliar a eficácia fotoprotetora. Emulsões contendo AGE e filtros solares foram formuladas utilizando diferentes tipos e concentrações de tensoativo polimérico (acrilates/C 10-30 alquil acrilato polímero cruzado e polilacrilato sódico). A influência de dois modificadores reológicos (poliacrilamida (e) C13-14/isoparafina (e) Laureth-7 e Carbomer) na estabilidade foi avaliada. A estabilidade física das emulsões foi avaliada por meio de estudos de estabilidade preliminar e acelerada. Emulsões com 1,0% poliacrilato sódico foram estáveis, exibiram comportamento não-newtoniano pseudoplástico e tixotrópico. A eficácia fotoprotetora foi avaliada pelo teste in vivo de Fator de Proteção Solar (FPS) e pela determinação do Fator de Proteção UVA (FP-UVA). Quando adicionado o AGE na emulsão contendo filtros solares, não se observou aumento significativo no valor do FPS. A emulsão contendo o AGE apresentou FP-UVA=14,97, a razão FPS/ FP-UVA = 1,69 e o comprimento de onda crítico igual a 378 nm, podendo ser considerado um protetor solar com proteção UVA e UVB. Unitermos:Emulsão O/A/desenvolvimento. Euterpe oleracea/farmacognosia. Euterpe oleracea/extrato glicólico/eficácia fotoprotetora. Protetores Solares/desenvolvimento. Fator de Proteção Solar.

“…Many studies are underway to assess the stability 586 of formulations containing vitamin E or to confirm the efficacy of tocopheryl acetate in improving photoaged skin (Almeida et al, 2010;Chiu, Kimball, 2003, Guaratini et al, 2006. Gaspar and Campos (2007) studied formulations containing sunscreen associated with vitamins A, C and E on the skin of hairless mice which was exposed to ultraviolet radiation and concluded that these vitamins, in association with photoprotective substances, play an important role in protecting the skin.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Stability and sensory assessment of emulsions containing propolis extract and/or tocopheryl acetate

Gonçalves

Srebernich

Souza

2011

The prevention of skin aging has been one of the main aims of cosmetic products. Propolis and tocopheryl acetate can be promising substances because of their antioxidant properties. In this study, propolis extract was obtained and associated with tocopheryl acetate in a cream formulation, which then underwent stability and sensory assessment. The formulation containing propolis extract and tocopheryl acetate proved to be stable in the preliminary stability study, demonstrating gradual darkening and slight pH decrease when subjected to 60 o C for 28 days, but showing stability on rheological study. In the sensory analysis, the formulation containing these two components was preferred by the product testers over the base cream and creams containing propolis extract or tocopheryl acetate alone. In conclusion, given the stability of the formulation and the preference of the product testers for this formulation, this association proved promising for use in cosmetic formulations.Uniterms: Antioxidant/use in cosmetic formulations. Cosmetics/sensory analysis. Propolis/extract/use in cosmetics. Tocopheryl acetate/use in cosmetics.A prevenção do envelhecimento cutâneo tem sido um dos principais focos dos produtos dermocosméticos. A própolis contém substâncias com atividade antioxidante, bem como o acetato de tocoferila é conhecido por apresentar esta atividade. Porém, a própolis apresenta odor muito característico e intenso, que pode interferir no sensorial do produto. Assim, no presente trabalho, obteve-se o extrato de própolis, que foi associado ao acetato de tocoferila em uma formulação de uso tópico, que foi avaliada quanto à estabilidade e às características sensoriais. Conduziu-se um estudo de estabilidade, no qual as formulações contendo ambos os compostos apresentaram escurecimento gradual e ligeira queda no pH após 28 dias sob 60 °C, tendo sido estável no estudo reológico. Na análise sensorial, realizada com 28 provadores, a formulação contendo extrato de própolis em associação com acetato de tocoferila foi a preferida, quando comparada com o creme base e o creme contendo somente extrato de própolis ou acetato de tocoferila. Em conclusão, devido à preferência dos provadores e ao estudo de estabilidade, a associação de extrato de própolis e de acetato de tocoferila mostrou ser promissora para uso em produtos dermocosméticos.Unitermos: Antioxidantes/uso em cosméticos. Cosméticos/análise sensorial. Própolis/extrato/uso cosmético. Acetato de tocoferila/uso cosmético.