Euterpe oleracea Mart. is a palm tree popularly known as açai, which is primarily found in northern Brazil. The açai's fruits contain anthocyanins, a class of polyphenols to which antioxidant properties have been attributed. The aim of this work was to develop O/W sunscreens emulsions containing açai glycolic extract (AGE) and to evaluate both their physical stability and photoprotective efficacy. Emulsions containing AGE and sunscreens were formulated using different types and concentrations of polymeric surfactant (acrylates/C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer and sodium polyacrylate). The influence of two rheology modifiers (polyacrylamide (and) C13-14/isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7 and Carbomer) on the stability was also investigated. Physical stability was evaluated by preliminary and accelerated studies. Emulsions with 1.0% sodium polyacrylate were stable and exhibited non-newtonian pseudoplastic behavior and thixotropy. Photoprotective efficacy was evaluated by in vivo Sun Protection Factor (SPF) and determination of Protection Factor of UVA (PF-UVA). When AGE was added to the sunscreen emulsion, no significant increase in the in vivo SPF value was observed. The emulsion containing AGE showed PF-UVA = 14.97, 1.69 of the SPF/PF-UVA ratio and a critical wavelength value of 378 nm, and may therefore be considered a sunscreen with UVA and UVB protection. Euterpe oleracea Mart. é uma palmeira popularmente conhecida como açaí, encontrada no norte do Brasil. O fruto do açaí apresenta em sua composição antocianinas, uma classe de polifenóis à qual é atribuída propriedade antioxidante. Os objetivos desse trabalho foram desenvolver emulsões fotoprotetoras O/A contendo extrato glicólico de açaí (AGE), avaliar a estabilidade física e avaliar a eficácia fotoprotetora. Emulsões contendo AGE e filtros solares foram formuladas utilizando diferentes tipos e concentrações de tensoativo polimérico (acrilates/C 10-30 alquil acrilato polímero cruzado e polilacrilato sódico). A influência de dois modificadores reológicos (poliacrilamida (e) C13-14/isoparafina (e) Laureth-7 e Carbomer) na estabilidade foi avaliada. A estabilidade física das emulsões foi avaliada por meio de estudos de estabilidade preliminar e acelerada. Emulsões com 1,0% poliacrilato sódico foram estáveis, exibiram comportamento não-newtoniano pseudoplástico e tixotrópico. A eficácia fotoprotetora foi avaliada pelo teste in vivo de Fator de Proteção Solar (FPS) e pela determinação do Fator de Proteção UVA (FP-UVA). Quando adicionado o AGE na emulsão contendo filtros solares, não se observou aumento significativo no valor do FPS. A emulsão contendo o AGE apresentou FP-UVA=14,97, a razão FPS/ FP-UVA = 1,69 e o comprimento de onda crítico igual a 378 nm, podendo ser considerado um protetor solar com proteção UVA e UVB. Unitermos:Emulsão O/A/desenvolvimento. Euterpe oleracea/farmacognosia. Euterpe oleracea/extrato glicólico/eficácia fotoprotetora. Protetores Solares/desenvolvimento. Fator de Proteção Solar.

No abstract

No abstract

No abstract

The aim of this work was the obtainment of Opuntia fícus-indica (L.) Mill extract for the development of cosmetic formulations and in vivo evaluation of its moisturizing effects. The formulations were tested for preliminary and accelerated stability. Organoleptic characteristics, pH values and rheological behavior were assessed. The evaluation of moisturizing efficacy of the emulsions formulated with 3.0% of Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 Isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7 containing 1.0 and 3.0% of O. ficus-indica hydroglycolic extract (EHG001) was performed using the capacitance method (Corneometer®) and the transepidermal water loss -TEWL evaluation (Tewameter®). The emulsions formulated were stable, exhibiting pseudoplastic and thixotropic behavior. The results of evaluation of moisturizing efficacy showed increased skin hydration after five hours by mainly increasing the skin barrier effect. The formulations containing 1.0 and 3.0% of EHG001 enhanced the skin barrier effect by reducing TEWL up to four hours after application. The results observed suggest that O. ficus-indica hydroglycolic extract may act through a humectant and occlusion mechanism.Uniterms Opuntia fícus indica/emulsion stability. Opuntia fícus indica/cosmetic efficacy. Skin/cosmetics/ use/efficacy