Cloth was the most economically, politically, and rituaUy valuable item in the late prehispanic Andes, and it might be expected that producers, distributors and consumers of this valuable would compete to capture the symbolic significance of these goods as an attribute or identity for themselves. Much has been said of the elite patrons of the textile arts in the Andes; far less has been said of the producers. Cloth production traditionally employed domestic -largely female -labor for both utilitarian and wealth production. The Inka state expanded textile production by taxing conquered households and by developing two new categories of specialist weavers. In reorganizing the economy, the Inka redefined the social identities of cloth producers to ensure that the symbolic significance of cloth accrued to the state, rather than to producers. The traditional category of domestic producers were dissociated from their products, likely seeing their own status diminish as the value of their products increased. The aqUakuna category of female specialist weavers enjoyed an idealized high status commensurate with the value of the exquisite cloth they wove, but at a high personal cost, as they remained sequestered virgins under control of the state.r> emn^c^t y> an d social status. So central was this principle to the Inka ideology of material culture that indigenous creation myths described the first Cloth was the most economically, politically, people as entering the world already dressed in garand ritually valuable item in the late prehispanic Andes, ments that identified their gender, ethnicity, and soIn the Inka empire, cloth was a utilitarian good, me-cial (elite) status (Guaman Poma 1980[1615:84; dium of taxation, and conspicuous sign of wealth Santacruz Pachacuti Yamqui 1968Yamqui [1613: 284-287). and political favor. Textiles expressed social rela-At the time the Spanish conquered the Inka empire, tionships and social identity. Social connections were strict sumptuary laws were aimed at ensuring that a constructed and expressed in the dynamics of tex-person's clothing would immediately signal approtile distribution. As an item of exchange, cloth flowed priate rank, ethnicity, and place of residence. Conin many directions among individuals and institu-quered populations were required to retain their distions of different rank and power, reflecting the tinctive "traditional" local dress styles after incorponature of the social relationship between giver and ration into the empire (Cobo 1979(Cobo [1653), as a way receiver. Textiles circulated among consanguinal and of controlling the population and maintaining ethaffinal kin to mark adjustments to social networks nic distinctions within the empire. This was an imduring key rites of passage such as birth, puberty, perial strategy in which only select portions of the marriage, and death. The bestowal of cloth to so-empire were "Inkanized" after incorporation into cial or political inferiors signified reward and pa-the empire (cf. Costin and Earle 1989) so as to d...