Swash saturation: an assessment of available models

Hughes, Michael G.; Baldock, Tom E.; Aagaard, Troels

doi:10.1007/s10236-018-1170-8

Cited by 6 publications

(3 citation statements)

References 28 publications

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“…The results in this paper showed, nonetheless, that as a consequence of the surf zone being unsaturated, the swash zone was also unsaturated, which is supported by the correlations between the offshore clusters and swash motion PDFs. This result is consistent with recent results from Hughes et al [37], who also showed that swash saturation is not always the case on natural beaches. Future swash zone research should focus on better linking surf and swash zone dynamics with particular emphasis on swash-by-swash approaches that have the potential to elucidate surf-swash interactions (for example, bore-bore capture) and their impact on runup and beach morphodynamics, which are currently poorly understood.…”

Section: Discussionsupporting

confidence: 94%

LiDAR Observations of Multi-Modal Swash Probability Distributions on a Dissipative Beach

Stringari

Power

2021

Remote Sensing

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Understanding swash zone dynamics is of crucial importance for coastal management as the swash motion, consisting of the uprush of the wave on the beach face and the subsequent downrush, is responsible for driving changes in the beach morphology through sediment exchanges between the sub-aerial and sub-aqueous beach. Improved understanding of the probabilistic characteristics of these motions has the potential to allow coastal engineers to develop improved sediment transport models which, in turn, can be further developed into coastal management tools. In this paper, novel descriptors of swash motions are obtained by combining field data and statistical modelling. Our results indicate that the probability distribution function (PDF) of shoreline height timeseries (p(ζ)) and trough-to-peak swash heights (p(ρ)) measured at a high energy, sandy beach were both inherently multimodal. Based on the observed multimodality of these PDFs, Gaussian mixtures are shown to be the best method to statistically model them. Further, our results show that both offshore and surf zone dynamics are responsible for driving swash zone dynamics, which indicates unsaturated swash. The novel methods and results developed in this paper, both data collection and analysis, could aid coastal managers to develop improved swash zone models in the future.

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Section: Discussionsupporting

confidence: 94%

LiDAR Observations of Multi-Modal Swash Probability Distributions on a Dissipative Beach

Stringari

Power

2021

Remote Sensing

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show abstract

Section: Discussionsupporting

confidence: 94%

LiDAR Observations of Multi-modal Swash Probability Distributions on a Dissipative Beach

Stringari¹,

Power²

2020

Preprint

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Understanding swash zone dynamics is of crucial importance for coastal management as the swash motion, consisting of the uprush of the wave on the beach face and the subsequent downrush, is responsible for driving changes the beach morphology trough sediment exchanges between the sub-aerial and sub-aqueous beach. Improved understanding of the probabilistic characteristics of these motions has the potential to allow coastal engineers to develop improved sediment transport models which, in turn, can be further developed into coastal management tools. In this paper, novel descriptors of swash motions are obtained by combining field data and statistical modelling. Our results indicate that the probability distribution function (PDF) of shoreline height (p(ζ)) and trough-to-peak swash heights (p(ρ)) measured at a high energy, sandy beach were both inherently multimodal. Based on the observed multimodality of these PDFs, Gaussian Mixtures are shown to be the best method to statistically model them. Further, our results show that both offshore and surf zone dynamics are responsible for driving swash zone dynamics, which indicates unsaturated swash. The novel methods and results developed in this paper, both data collection and analysis, could aid coastal managers to develop improved swash zone models in the future.

show abstract

“…A 2DH (two horizontal dimension) model resolving surf zone instabilities is then utilized to investigate whether this may be related to observable natural phenomenon, concluding that it would approximate a real morphodynamic instability only for quite particular conditions. Hughes et al (2018) investigate swash saturation based on an extensive field data set, representing the full range of microtidal beach states (reflective, intermediate, and dissipative). Two different models are tested, driven either by standing waves or bores.…”

mentioning

confidence: 99%

The 8th International Conference on Coastal Dynamics, Helsingør, Denmark, 12-16 June, 2017

2019

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Swash saturation: an assessment of available models

Cited by 6 publications

References 28 publications

LiDAR Observations of Multi-Modal Swash Probability Distributions on a Dissipative Beach

LiDAR Observations of Multi-Modal Swash Probability Distributions on a Dissipative Beach

LiDAR Observations of Multi-modal Swash Probability Distributions on a Dissipative Beach

The 8th International Conference on Coastal Dynamics, Helsingør, Denmark, 12-16 June, 2017

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