Swell Transformation across the Continental Shelf. Part I: Attenuation and Directional Broadening

Ardhuin, Fabrice; O’Reilly, W. C.; Herbers, T. H. C.; Jessen, Paul F.

doi:10.1175/1520-0485(2003)033<1921:statcs>2.0.co;2

Cited by 131 publications

(79 citation statements)

References 29 publications

Supporting

Mentioning

Contrasting

Order By: Relevance

“…In section 3, an idealized case is examined to Greenwood (1998). Ardhuin et al (2003), and Wyatt et isolate the effect of the inaccuracy of the Discrete Interal. (2003) all include quantitative non-data-adaptive Action approximation for four-wave nonlinear intcraccomparisons for validation of hindcast directional tions.…”

Section: Ffrequency T Irmentioning

confidence: 99%

See 1 more Smart Citation

Directional Validation of Wave Predictions*

Rogers

Wang

2007

Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

The public reporting burden for this collection of information is estimated to average 1 hour per response, including the time for reviewing instructions, searching existing data sources, gathering and maintaining the data needed, and completing and reviewing the collection of information. Send comments regarding this burden estimate or any other aspect of this collection of information, Including suggestions for reducing the burden, to the Department of Defense, Executive Services and Communications Directorate 10704-01881. Respondents should be aware that notwithstanding any other provision of law, no person shall be subject to any penalty for failing to comply with a collection of information If it does not display a currently valid OMB control number. Arlington, VA 22217-5660 PLEASE DO NOT SPONSOR/MONITOR'S REPORT NUMBER(S) DISTRIBUTION/AVAILABILITY STATEMENTApproved for public release, distribution is unlimited. SUPPLEMENTARY NOTES 20070813132 ABSTRACTA methodology for quantitative, directional validation of a long-term wave model hindcast is described and applied.Buoy observations are used as ground truth and the method does not require the application of a parametric model or data-adaptive method to the observations. Four frequency ranges, relative to the peak frequency, are considered. The validation of the hindcast does not suggest any systematic bias in predictions of directional spreading at or above the spectral peak. Idealized simulations are presented to aid in the interpretation of results. ABSTRACT A methodology for quantitative, directional validation of a long-term wave model hindcast is described and applied. Buoy observations are used as ground truth and the method does not require the application of a parametric model or data-adaptive method to the observations. Four frequency ranges, relative to the peak frequency, are considered. The validation of the hindcast does not suggest any systematic bias in predictions of directional spreading at or above the spectral peak. Idealized simulations are presented to aid in the interpretation of results. 1.Introduction turning winds is a concern (e.g., Young et al. 1987). The ability of third-generation models to accurately predict a. Back ground the width of the directional distribution is poorly un-1) IMPORTANCE/RELEVANCE derstood. Indeed, as is described in a companion manuscript (Rogers and Wang 2006, hereafter RW), evaluaPrincipal wave direction, quantified as a mean or tions in the literature show very little consensus. peak value, is of obvious importance to wave prediction. Directional distribution about the mean or peak direction is also very important for wave modeling. It b. Model description can have a large impact on the prediction of swells,The so-called third-generation (3G) of spectral wave since it determines how far and wide the swells will models calculate wave spectra without a priori assumpdisperse. Nonlinear interactions computed by a wave tions regarding spectral shape. For this investigation, model are sensitive to the direction...

show abstract

Section: Ffrequency T Irmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…This approach has been taken by others: for Our approach is a compromise between these two example. Ardhuin et al (2003). The specific calculamotivators.…”

Section: ) Challenge: Describing Frequency Variation Mixed Sea/swellmentioning

confidence: 99%

Directional Validation of Wave Predictions*

Rogers

Wang

2007

Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

show abstract

“…Over the continental shelves and near the coast, ocean waves are affected by many additional processes, including refraction by depth and current variations (e.g., Munk and Traylor 1947;O'Reilly and Guza 1993;Dodet et al 2013;Pearman et al 2014); Bragg scattering by bottom irregularities (e.g., Long 1973;Ardhuin and Herbers 2002); bottom friction (e.g., Grant and Madsen 1979;Ardhuin et al 2003); and eventually, when approaching the shoreline, second-order nonlinearity (e.g., Freilich and Guza 1984;Kaihatu and Kirby 1995;Eldeberky 1996;Herbers and Burton 1997;Agnon and Sheremet 1997;Janssen et al 2006), depth-induced breaking (e.g., Battjes and Janssen 1978;Thornton and Guza 1983;Apotsos et al 2008;Salmon et al 2015), and wave reflection from shore (e.g., Elgar et al 1994). Although some of these processes can be highly nonlinear and are not all well understood (e.g., depth-induced wave breaking and white capping), they generally drive slow variations in the mean wave statistics such that the evolution of the wave variance density spectrum E(k, x, t) through time t, geographical space x 5 (x 1 , x 2 ), and wavenumber space k 5 (k 1 , k 2 ) can be described by the radiative transport equation (RTE):…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Stochastic Modeling of Coherent Wave Fields over Variable Depth

Smit

Janssen

Herbers

2015

Journal of Physical Oceanography

Self Cite

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

Refractive focusing of swell waves can result in fast-scale variations in the wave statistics because of wave interference, which cannot be resolved by stochastic wave models based on the radiative transport equation. Quasi-coherent statistical theory does account for such statistical interferences and the associated wave inhomogeneities, but the theory has thus far been presented in a form that appears incompatible with models based on the radiative transfer equation (RTE). Moreover, the quasi-coherent theory has never been tested against field data, and it is not clear how the coherent information inherent to such models can be used for better understanding coastal wave and circulation dynamics. This study therefore revisits the derivation of quasi-coherent theory to formulate it into a radiative transport equation with a forcing term that accounts for the inhomogeneous part of the wave field. This paper shows how the model can be nested within (or otherwise used in conjunction with) quasi-homogeneous wave models based on the RTE. Through comparison to laboratory data, numerical simulations of a deterministic model, and field observations of waves propagating over a nearshore canyon head, the predictive capability of the model is validated. The authors discuss the interference patterns predicted by the model through evaluation of a complex cross-correlation function and highlight the differences with quasi-homogeneous predictions. These results show that quasi-coherent theory can extend models based on the RTE to resolve coherent interference patterns and standing wave features in coastal areas, which are believed to be important in nearshore circulation and sediment transport.

show abstract

“…The North Indian Ocean being bounded to the north by the Asian continent leads to a unique seasonal reversal of the monsoon winds and associated waves (Anoop et al, 2015). Studies conducted in the eastern Arabian Sea (AS) indicate that due to the presence of swells and windseas, the wave spectrum is bimodal (Baba et al, 1989;Sanil Kumar et al, 2003;Vethamony et al, 2011). By analysing the wave data collected during the period 18-30 April 2005, at 2700 and 30 m water depth in the eastern AS, Sanil Kumar et al (2007) observed that the conditions in the deep water are influenced by swell, whereas in the shallow water, the influence of wind-seas is dominating in most of the study period.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…When waves travel towards the coast, the wave characteristics change due to refraction, shoaling, diffraction, dissipation due to friction, dissipation due to percolation, breaking, additional growth due to the wind, wave-current interaction and wave-wave interactions. In the wide continental shelf under the swelldominated situation, dissipation of wave energy is mainly by bottom friction in the absence of local wind (Ardhuin et al, 2003). Aboobacker et al (2013) reported that the reduction in significant wave height along the west coast of India between 25 and 15 m water depth off Goa and between 35 and 15 m depth off Ratnagiri is less than 10 % and is higher (22 %) off Dwaraka between 30 and 15 m. Off Ratnagiri, Aboobacker et al (2013) observed that due to wave-bottom interaction and interaction of wind-sea with aligned swells, the swells attenuated.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Changes in nearshore waves during the active sea/land breeze period off Vengurla, central west coast of India

2016

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

Abstract.A unique feature observed in the tropical and subtropical coastal area is the diurnal sea-breeze/land-breeze cycle. We examined the nearshore waves at 5 and 15 m water depth during the active sea/land breeze period (JanuaryApril) in the year 2015 based on the data measured using the waverider buoys moored in the eastern Arabian sea off Vengurla, central west coast of India. Temporal variability of diurnal wave response is examined. Numerical model Delft3D is used to study the nearshore wave transformation. The wave height increased due to the sea breeze and reached its peak at ∼ 13:00 UTC at 15 m water depth, whereas the peak significant wave height is at 12:00 UTC at 5 m water depth. Due to the influence of the land/sea breeze system, the range of the peak wave period in 1 day varied up to 8 s. Reduction in the wave height of wind-sea is around 20 % and that of the swell is around 10 % from 15 to 5 m water depth.

show abstract

Swell Transformation across the Continental Shelf. Part I: Attenuation and Directional Broadening

Cited by 131 publications

References 29 publications

Directional Validation of Wave Predictions*

Directional Validation of Wave Predictions*

Stochastic Modeling of Coherent Wave Fields over Variable Depth

Changes in nearshore waves during the active sea/land breeze period off Vengurla, central west coast of India

Contact Info

Product

Resources

About