Systemic skin whitening/lightening agents: What is the evidence?

Munisamy, Malathi; Thappa, Devinder Mohan

doi:10.4103/0378-6323.120752

Cited by 27 publications

(9 citation statements)

References 12 publications

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“…In some Asian countries, especially in the Philippines and India, Glutathione‐based oral dietary supplements are easily available over‐the‐counter and are enjoying considerable commercial success. Nevertheless, to the best of our knowledge, very few studies have been designed to demonstrate the efficacy of nutrients taken by oral route on skin lightening/whitening, comparatively to those dedicated to a cosmetic use by topical route 10 . For example, an article from 2016 reported the results of one 12‐week, double‐blind, placebo‐controlled trial which aimed at demonstrating the skin‐lightening effect of an oral supplementation with lutein and zeaxanthin isomers 24 .…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Several ingredients such as amino acids, vitamin C, vitamin E, and various botanicals have already been used by the oral route to help lighten the skin 10 . Among them, L‐Glutathione, a powerful intracellular antioxidant, has a special status.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…In the present research, we hypothesized that the oral supplementation with a food supplement containing L‐Cystine associated or not with L‐Glutathione could modify the balance between eumelanin and pheomelanin toward the “lighter” melanin type, consequently producing a whitening/lightening effect (Figure 1). We have indeed considered that the pheomelanogenesis proceeds under conditions of high cysteine concentration, 17 and also taken into account the theoretical basis of the Raper‐Mason pathway described in various scientific reviews 10,18 …”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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The effects of the oral supplementation of L‐Cystine associated with reduced L‐Glutathione‐GSH on human skin pigmentation: a randomized, double‐blinded, benchmark‐ and placebo‐controlled clinical trial

Duperray¹,

Sergheraert²,

Chalothorn³

et al. 2021

J of Cosmetic Dermatology

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Background: Glutathione has become a potential skin-lightening ingredient after the discovery of its anti-melanogenic properties. Various mechanisms of action have been considered to explain this property, one of them being the skewing of the melanin synthesis pathway toward the production of lighter pheomelanin instead of darker eumelanin, consequently producing a lightening effect. Aims:To evaluate the skin lightening and anti-dark spot effects of oral supplementation with L-Cystine associated with L-Glutathione as compared to placebo and benchmark.Methods: Effects of this L-Cystine-L-Glutathione oral combination were investigated in a 12-week randomized, double-blind, parallel-group, benchmark-and placebocontrolled trial involving 124 Asian female subjects. Women were randomly allocated into 4 equal groups (500 mg L-Cystine and 250 mg L-Glutathione, 250 mg reduced L-Glutathione, 500 mg L-Cystine, or a placebo, daily). Skin color was measured at baseline, after 6 and 12 weeks by spectrophotometry. Size and color of facial dark spots were determined from digital photographs.Results: A significant skin lightening was observed after 12 weeks of oral supplementation with L-Cystine associated with L-Glutathione. This combination also induced a significant reduction in the size of facial dark spots after 6 and 12 weeks. It is noteworthy that the observed effects were not only significantly better than those obtained with placebo, but also with L-Cystine alone or L-Glutathione alone. Conclusion:The daily oral administration of 500 mg L-Cystine and 250 mg L-Glutathione during 12 weeks was a safe treatment to effectively lighten the skin and reduce the size of facial dark spots of Asian women.

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Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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The effects of the oral supplementation of L‐Cystine associated with reduced L‐Glutathione‐GSH on human skin pigmentation: a randomized, double‐blinded, benchmark‐ and placebo‐controlled clinical trial

Duperray¹,

Sergheraert²,

Chalothorn³

et al. 2021

J of Cosmetic Dermatology

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“…A reduction in hyperpigmentation may not have been apparent by visual inspection, but was seen by sensitive instrumental analyses. Given that studies on oral and topical depigmenting agents typically show results only after 4‐12 weeks, the 60‐day duration of the study could have been limiting with regard to clinical grading of hyperpigmentation 38,39 …”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Efficacy of a collagen hydrolysate and antioxidants‐containing nutraceutical on metrics of skin health in Indian women

Motwani¹,

Khan²,

Pai³

et al. 2020

J of Cosmetic Dermatology

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Background The skin’s aging process involves a decreased biosynthesis of extracellular matrix proteins (predominantly collagen) compounded by damage from environmental and intrinsic stressors. The Indian population is susceptible to skin damage given its geography and increasing urbanization or a genetic disposition. Previous studies have investigated nutrients such as collagen peptides, vitamins and phytonutrient‐rich botanical extracts for their individual benefits on skin. Aims This study examined the collective effect of a proprietary blend of these nutrients (in Nutrova Collagen+Antioxidants; NCA) on skin parameters, which has not been previously studied, especially in an Indian context. Patients/Methods 34 healthy, Indian women (mean age = 39.5 years) were given a placebo daily for 30 days to establish a baseline, followed by NCA for two intervals of 30 days. 3D image reconstruction allowed the analysis of skin topography and blemishes. Instrumental measurements also included skin firmness, elasticity, hydration, and transepidermal water loss. Clinical evaluation was used to grade blemishes, wrinkles and periorbital hyperpigmentation. Results Based on instrumental evaluation, NCA significantly reduced wrinkle width, open pores, skin roughness, and the colour of hyperpigmented blemishes, while improving skin hydration, firmness and barrier function from baseline to Day 30 and Day 60. NCA also increased elasticity at Day 30. Clinical evaluation showed that periorbital hyperpigmentation and wrinkles reduced significantly. Conclusion NCA is effective for improving overall skin health in Indian women. These results show that targeted nutrient supplementation can improve skin health and further research over extended durations is merited.

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“…The jar of carrot baby jelly she gave to me does not have any health information or warnings on the jar, but is infused with carrot and chamomile extract. Carrot is an ingredient used in skin whitening products and GSH is also found in carrots (Malathi & Thappa, 2013). The carrot petroleum jelly was distributed in 1995 by Pearl Collection, a cosmetic and beauty supply entity that closed in shortly after.…”

Section: Sources Of Informationmentioning

confidence: 99%

An examination of black women's health information understanding and negotiation of engagement in skin whitening

Ashley¹

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Taking a domestic approach to understanding a global phenomenon, the purpose of this project is to illuminate how black women receive health information concerning skin whitening and how such information impacts black women's negotiation and engagement in skin whitening as a health, racial, cultural, and social practice situated in an African American and Caribbean immigrant community. Triangulating semi-structured in-depth interviews, autoethnography, field and participant observations, I completed a close look at skin whitening over four weeks of intensive observation and self-introspection. Findings reveal a complicated understanding of health and racial hazard engulfed in familial exchanges and non-knowledgeable representatives of products that vie for skin whitening products use without proper representation of health information and impacts.

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Systemic skin whitening/lightening agents: What is the evidence?

Cited by 27 publications

References 12 publications

The effects of the oral supplementation of L‐Cystine associated with reduced L‐Glutathione‐GSH on human skin pigmentation: a randomized, double‐blinded, benchmark‐ and placebo‐controlled clinical trial

The effects of the oral supplementation of L‐Cystine associated with reduced L‐Glutathione‐GSH on human skin pigmentation: a randomized, double‐blinded, benchmark‐ and placebo‐controlled clinical trial

Efficacy of a collagen hydrolysate and antioxidants‐containing nutraceutical on metrics of skin health in Indian women

An examination of black women's health information understanding and negotiation of engagement in skin whitening

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