The effects of tides on swash statistics on an intermediate beach

Guedes, Rafael Marcondes Carvalho; Bryan, Karin R.; Coco, Giovanni; Holman, R. A.

doi:10.1029/2010jc006660

Cited by 55 publications

(61 citation statements)

References 47 publications

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“…Different run-up parameterizations from the literature (Ruggiero et al, 2001;Senechal et al, 2011) were employed and calibrated using the downscaled data. Furthermore, due to the observed modulation of run-up by tides (e.g., Guedes et al, 2011), a new parameterization of run-up and setup was derived for the study area as a function of the tidal level and wave conditions employing the 30-year R 2 % data.…”

Section: Run-up Parameterizationmentioning

confidence: 99%

Run-up parameterization and beach vulnerability assessment on a barrier island: a downscaling approach

Medellín

Brinkkemper

Torres-Freyermuth

et al. 2016

Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci.

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Abstract. We present a downscaling approach for the study of wave-induced extreme water levels at a location on a barrier island in Yucatán (Mexico). Wave information from a 30-year wave hindcast is validated with in situ measurements at 8 m water depth. The maximum dissimilarity algorithm is employed for the selection of 600 representative cases, encompassing different combinations of wave characteristics and tidal level. The selected cases are propagated from 8 m water depth to the shore using the coupling of a third-generation wave model and a phase-resolving nonhydrostatic nonlinear shallow-water equation model. Extreme wave run-up, R 2 % , is estimated for the simulated cases and can be further employed to reconstruct the 30-year time series using an interpolation algorithm. Downscaling results show run-up saturation during more energetic wave conditions and modulation owing to tides. The latter suggests that the R 2 % can be parameterized using a hyperbolic-like formulation with dependency on both wave height and tidal level. The new parametric formulation is in agreement with the downscaling results (r 2 = 0.78), allowing a fast calculation of wave-induced extreme water levels at this location. Finally, an assessment of beach vulnerability to wave-induced extreme water levels is conducted at the study area by employing the two approaches (reconstruction/parameterization) and a storm impact scale. The 30-year extreme water level hindcast allows the calculation of beach vulnerability as a function of return periods. It is shown that the downscaling-derived parameterization provides reasonable results as compared with the numerical approach. This methodology can be extended to other locations and can be further improved by incorporating the storm surge contributions to the extreme water level.

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Section: Run-up Parameterizationmentioning

confidence: 99%

Run-up parameterization and beach vulnerability assessment on a barrier island: a downscaling approach

Medellín

Brinkkemper

Torres-Freyermuth

et al. 2016

Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci.

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“…The first dataset (referred to here as the "original dataset") is composed by 491 swash measurements from 10 experiments aggregated by Stockdon et al, (2006). The second dataset (referred to here as the "new dataset") consists of 145 swash measurements 110 compiled for this work from three experiments performed by Guedes et al, (2013), Guedes et al, (2011), andSenechal, et al, (2011).…”

Section: Datamentioning

confidence: 99%

“…In addition, we use data from Guedes et al, (2013), Guedes et al, (2011Guedes et al, ( , 2012, and Senechal, et al, (2011) to broaden the parameter space and to test the new swash equations. 100…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

The use of genetic programming to develop a predictor of swash excursion on sandy beaches

Passarella¹,

Goldstein²,

Muro³

et al. 2017

Preprint

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We use Genetic Programming (GP), a type of Machine Learning (ML) approach, to predict the total and infragravity swash 10 excursion using previously published datasets that have been used extensively in swash prediction studies. Three previously published works with a range of new conditions are added to this dataset to extend the range of measured swash conditions.Using this newly compiled dataset we demonstrate that a ML approach can reduce the prediction errors compared to wellestablished parameterizations and therefore it contributes to the error in coastal hazards assessment (e.g. coastal inundation).Predictors obtained using GP can also be physically sound and replicate the functionality and dependencies of previous 15 published formulas. Overall, we show that ML techniques are capable of both improving predictability (compared to classical regression approaches) and providing physical insight into coastal processes.

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“…Génie Côtier -Génie Civil Cherbourg, 12-14 juin 2012 4. Discussion Bien que peu explorée jusqu'alors, la modulation tidale observée dans le comportement du run-up a déjà été reportée dans la littérature (STOCKDON et al, 2006 ;GUEDES et al, 2011). Cependant, il semble que différents paramètres entrent en jeu dans cette variation de comportement (vagues dans la zone de déferlement, pente de plage) dont les influences ne sont pas clairement établies.…”

Section: Figure 3 Paramètres Hydrodynamiques Et Environnementaux Le unclassified

“…Des incertitudes demeurent quant à la paramétrisation du run-up en fonction des différents paramètres environnementaux. De récentes études ont notamment montré que la marée et la morphologie ont une influence sur le comportement du run-up (GUEDES et al, 2011). Cependant, l'impact de ces paramètres reste encore peu connu, notamment lors de conditions énergétiques.…”

Section: Introductionunclassified

Dynamique de la zone de swash : influence de la marée et de la morphologie sur les paramètres du run-up

Enjalbert¹,

Sénéchal²,

Bryan³

et al. 2012

XIIèmes Journées, Cherbourg

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Résumé :L'influence de la pente de plage et de la morphologie sur le run-up sont étudiées, au cours d'un cycle de marée dans des conditions dissipatives, à partir de données vidéo. Le run-up est dominé par la composante infragravitaire qui présente une variation d'un facteur deux au cours du cycle de marée qui ne peut s'expliquer uniquement par une variabilité du forçage au large. Une forte variabilité de la pente de plage est observée et, contrairement aux études précédentes, le run-up n'est pas relié linéairement à H 0. La forme du profil de plage ainsi que l'évolution des vagues dans la zone de surf sont significativement corrélées au run-up. Mots-clés :Run-up -Imagerie vidéo -Marée -Paramètres environnementaux -Pente de plageBande infragravitaire -Conditions dissipatives Abstract: The impact of tide and morphology on run-up parameters in dissipative conditions is assessed, using high-frequency video observations. The infragravity run-up is dominant and shows variations of about 60% during an entire tidal cycle. This behavior cannot be explained by the evolution of offshore wave conditions. Wave conditions in the surf zone and the beach slope are tidally modulated and significantly correlated to the runup. The role of the shape of the beach profile is also investigated.

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The effects of tides on swash statistics on an intermediate beach

Cited by 55 publications

References 47 publications

Run-up parameterization and beach vulnerability assessment on a barrier island: a downscaling approach

Run-up parameterization and beach vulnerability assessment on a barrier island: a downscaling approach

The use of genetic programming to develop a predictor of swash excursion on sandy beaches

Dynamique de la zone de swash : influence de la marée et de la morphologie sur les paramètres du run-up

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