Three-Dimensional Beach Changes

Sonu, Choule J.

doi:10.1086/627806

Cited by 156 publications

(90 citation statements)

References 21 publications

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“…Beaches that experience a wide range in wave breaker conditions through time change state in an ordered sequence as wave steepness or energy levels increase or decrease (Sonu, 1973;Short, 1979). This ordered behavior means that by studying a set of several different beaches that represent a range of beach-states, insight can be gained into how morphodynamic processes evolve with cycles of incident wave energy.…”

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confidence: 99%

Spectral signatures for swash on reflective, intermediate and dissipative beaches

et al. 2014

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In this paper we synthesise a large data set gathered from a wide variety of field deployments and integrate it with previously published results to identify the spectral signatures of swash from contrasting beach types. The field data set includes the full range of micro-tidal beach types (reflective, intermediate and dissipative), with beach gradients ranging from approximately 1:6 to 1:60 exposed to offshore significant wave heights of 0.5 m to 3.0 m.The ratio of swash energy in the short-wave (f>0.05 Hz) to long-wave (f<0.05 Hz) frequency bands is found to be significantly different between the three beach types. Swash energy at short-wave frequencies is dominant on reflective and intermediate beaches and swash at long-wave frequencies is dominant on dissipative beaches; consistent with previously reported spectral signatures for the surf zone on these beach types.The available swash spectra were classified using an automated algorithm (CLARA) into five different classes. The ordered classes represent an evolution in the spectrum shape, described by a frequency downshifting of the energy peak from the short-wave into the longwave frequency band and an increase in the long-wave swash energy level compared to a relatively minor variation in the short-wave swash energy level. A universally common feature of spectra from all beach-states was an 4  f energy roll-off in the short-wave frequency band. In contrast to the broadly uniform appearance of the short-wave frequency band, the appearance of the long wave frequency band was highly variable across the beachstates. A C C E P T E D M A N U S C R I P T ACCEPTED MANUSCRIPT

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Spectral signatures for swash on reflective, intermediate and dissipative beaches

et al. 2014

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“…Cependant, les résultats de l'étude ont montré que la barre de déferlement a un caractère mobile qui la distingue des barres plus au large. Ce comportement la rapproche plus particulièrement de certaines structures moins stables, illustrées par Hayes (1969) et Sonu (1973 le long de la côte est des États-Unis.…”

Section: Resultsunclassified

“…Leur origine est attribuée, de façon générale, au transfert d'énergie entre les houles et le fond marin. Ces structures présentent des formes variées qui ont été étudiées à de nombreux sites, notamment le long des côtes australiennes (Wright era/., 1979;Short, 1979), sur les bords de la Méditerranée (King et Williams, 1949) et de la mer Noire (Zenkovitch, 1967), sur la côte est américaine (Sonu, 1973;Hayes, 1969) et au Nouveau-Brunswick (Davidson-Arnott et Greenwood, 1976).…”

Section: Introductionunclassified

Évolution morpho-sédimentaire de la barre de déferlement : un exemple dans le golfe du Saint-Laurent, Québec

Ross¹,

Long²

2007

gpq

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Le littoral de la région de Mingan (moyenne Côte-Nord du golfe du Saint-Laurent), se caractérise par un ensemble de cinq barres d'avant-côte parallèles se succédant depuis le littoral jusqu'à une profondeur de 12 m. Ces barres s'apparentent, selon la classification de Greenwood et Davidson-Arnott (1979), aux barres décrites par Evans (1940) et Hom-ma et Sonu (1962). Ce type de barres diffère des crêtes et sillons prélittoraux tels que définis par King et Williams (1949). La première barre du système de Mingan, qui fait l'objet de ce travail, représente un type particulier; elle est partiellement exondée à marée basse et soumis au déferlement des vagues à marée haute. L'étude comprend un échantillonnage des sédiments de surface, des prélèvements de carottes et des relevés topographiques. Le haut de plage est composé de sable fin à moyen bien trié et le bas de plage, de sable grossier et mal classé. Le creux est constitué de matériel très grossier et de sable fin provenant du transfert sédimentaire de la barre vers le creux. Les sédiments de la crête et des pentes marine et terrestre de la barre sont constitués de sable moyen, modérément à bien classé. Le sommet de la barre s'érode sur une épaisseur de 20 à 25 cm sous l'action des houles de tempête et une fraction de sédiments fins se dépose dans le creux. Par temps calme, la barre tend à reprendre son profil initial (avant tempête) sous l'action des courants de marée et de dérive littorale qui siègent dans le creux et qui transportent le sédiment parallèlement à la côte. Les épaisseurs de remaniement sont alors réduites (5 cm sur la crête et 15 cm au bas de la pente terrestre et sur la pente marine).The Mingan area shoreline (North Shore of the Gulf of St-Lawrence) is characterized by five parallel nearshore bars from the beach to a depth of 12 m. These bars are related, in the classification of Greenwood and Davidson-Arnott (1979), to the bars described by Evans (1940) and Homma and Sonu (1962). This bar type is different from the ridge and runnel defined by King and Williams (1949). The first bar of the Mingan area, wich is studied in this paper is particular in that it is partially exposed at low tide level and submitted to breaking waves at high tide level. The study includes surface sediment sampling, coring and topographic survey. Upper beach sediments consist of well sorted fine to medium sand whereas lower beach sands are coarse grained and poorly sorted. The trough is made up of coarse material and fine sand transfered from the top of the bar. Sediments from landward slope, crest and seaward slope are medium grained and moderately to well sorted. The crest of the bar is eroded to a depth of 20 cm to 25 cm under storm wave action. During post-storm regime, the bar shifts from storm profile to post-storm profile in response to longshore currents with transport sediments. Then, the depth of reworking is reduced to 5 cm on the crest of the bar and 15 cm on both landward and seaward slopes.El litoral de la region de Mingan (sector medio de la costa norte del S...

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“…All three went on to complete Ph.D.s on coastal topics at Louisiana State University (LSU). Here they were introduced to the more holistic approach to studying the world's coastal systems developed at LSU's Coastal Studies Institute (CSI) by people like R J Russell, W McIntire and J Coleman, and transferred to the beach environment by C J Sonu (Sonu, 1973;Short and Jackson, 2010). By the mid-1970s all three were back at the University of Sydney, with Thom, Wright and Langford-Smith establishing the Coastal Studies Unit (CSU) in the Department of Geography, in 1976, in part a second generation to the LSU-CSI.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

The Coastal Studies Unit and Development of the Australian Beach Models

Short

2016

Journal of Coastal Research

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Three-Dimensional Beach Changes

Cited by 156 publications

References 21 publications

Spectral signatures for swash on reflective, intermediate and dissipative beaches

Spectral signatures for swash on reflective, intermediate and dissipative beaches

Évolution morpho-sédimentaire de la barre de déferlement : un exemple dans le golfe du Saint-Laurent, Québec

The Coastal Studies Unit and Development of the Australian Beach Models

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