This article interrogates how the provision (or absence) of state infrastructure such as roads, bridges, permanent buildings, water reticulation, electricity, and transport facilities in regions hosting the lucrative tourism industry is linked to state control and regulation of the use of space, as well as the daily lives of conservation-adjacent citizens. Using the dialectic of legibility and illegibility in the context of Botswana’s expansive wildlife tourism industry, it examines how ambiguous government expansions and retractions of infrastructure function as mechanisms of state-building in relation to the natural environment. In Botswana’s western region, the provision of infrastructure draws out previously sparsely populated and seasonally mobile people from “the bush” to live in state-sanctioned villages, pulling them into a relationship of “legibility” with the state. However, in the north, where the bulk of the tourism industry is based, the calculus is different. The allocation of infrastructure is delayed or denied in order to maintain the fiction of a people-free wilderness that appeals to foreign tourist consumers—pushing local people into “illegibility”. The myth of a people-less wilderness produces highly differentiated modes of state intervention in rural areas, shifting local peoples’ ability to interface with the state, the tourism industry, and other citizens. This article conceptualizes illegibility not as a form of resistance to, or avoidance of, state power but in the unique context produced by enclave wildlife tourism, an alternative manifestation of state power.