Two Dimensional Beach Transformation Due to Waves

Sunamura, Tsuguo; Horikawa, Kiyoshi

doi:10.1061/9780872621138.056

Cited by 108 publications

(95 citation statements)

References 11 publications

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“…In Table 4 values of H t and H s calculated for the analysed boulders both with Nott (2003) and Pignatelli et al (2009) methods are reported. For the Maddalena peninsula, Scicchitano et al (2007) estimated a maximum storm generated wave height between 9.31 m and 9.36 m, by applying the equation of Sunamura and Horikawa (1974) used to calculate the height of a wave at breaking point (H b ) starting from the height and the period of the same wave measured in deep water (H o ). Following this method, the wave heights at breaking point were calculated for the most severe storm generated wave registered by the ondametric buoy of Catania since 1989 (H o1989 = 6.2 m; H b1989 = 9.31 m) and for the most severe storm generated wave supposable for the area with a return period of 50 years (H oT 50 = 6.24 m; H bT 50 = 9.36 m) estimated by applying the Gumbel treatment to available recorded data (Inghilesi et al, 2000) (Fig.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Terrestrial Laser Scanner techniques in the assessment of tsunami impact on the Maddalena peninsula (south-eastern Sicily, Italy)

et al. 2012

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The coastline of the Maddalena peninsula (south-eastern Sicily, Italy) is characterised by the occurrence of a boulder field associated to an extended soil stripping area and by a gravel/sandy berm. The accumulation of the boulders has been mostly correlated to the impact of the December 28, 1908 tsunami wave. The use of Terrestrial Laser Scanner survey techniques, associated to Differential Global Position System determinations, permits to obtain new data for the assessment of tsunami impact on this coastal area. The computing of the surveyed data using the most recent equations is a useful tool in order to estimate the theoretic inundation limit and to reconstruct its variability in function of the boulders size and of the coastal topography. Moreover, the entire new data set allows to confirm that the hypothesis of the tsunami impact is the most reasonable to explain the occurrence of boulders weighing up to 50 tons on the Maddalena peninsula.

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Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Terrestrial Laser Scanner techniques in the assessment of tsunami impact on the Maddalena peninsula (south-eastern Sicily, Italy)

et al. 2012

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“…Among them, obtaining suitable values for the limiting parameter П c is a challenging task. By considering initial wave, sediment and beach conditions (H, T, d and m) given in Tables 1 and 2, П c was computed for each test case and plotted against the Sunamura and Horikawa (1974) parameter C. Figure 5 illustrates the categorisation of П c into four different zones: 1) Erosion, 2) Accumulation, 3) and 4) Combination of both. The limit parameter varies from smaller values in zone 3 to larger values in zone 4.…”

Section: Model Verification and Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…By considering the bed load models of Sunamura and Horikawa (1974), Shibayama and Horikawa (1982) and Watanabe (1982), the Watanabe (1982) model was selected as the most suitable in the present study. The sensitivity study related to the selection of bed load model is given in Takayama et al (2012).…”

Section: I) Bed Load Models Due To Mean Current and Wave Actionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Applicability of Suspended Sediment Concentration Formulae to Large-Scale Beach Morphological Changes

Jayaratne

Takayama

Shibayama

2012

Int. Conf. Coastal. Eng.

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Study of beach morphological changes under storm conditions and its prediction capability are of paramount importance in coastal zone management. Seabed sediment is picked up violently in and outside the surf zone due to suspension mechanisms, therefore a considerable amount of sand is transported in coastal waters due to such mechanisms. For the construction of an accurate beach morphological model, it is necessary to elucidate the sediment suspension and to introduce it properly into the modelling of sediment transport. Jayaratne and Shibayama (2007) developed a complete set of explicit theoretical formulae to predict the time-averaged concentration on sandy beaches due to three suspension mechanisms: a) vortical motion over wave-generated sand ripples, b) from sheet flow, and c) turbulent motion under breaking waves. The present paper focuses on the development of a quasi-3D beach deformation model using the sediment concentration models of Jayaratne and Shibayama (2007), the bed load model of Watanabe (1982), the wave propagation model of Onaka et al. (1988), the nearshore current model of Philips (1977) and the undertow model of Okayasu et al. (1990) to predict the large-scale morphodynamics of sandy beaches. The predicted beach profiles and total sediment transport rates were compared with two sets of large-scale laboratory experimental data [Kajima et al. (1983); Kraus and Larson (1988)] and Seisho beach at Kanagawa Prefecture, Japan. It can be concluded that the present numerical model is capable of predicting sediment transport direction, onoffshore sand bar formation and the general trend of the beach profiles of large-scale erosive-and accretive-type sandy beaches to a satisfactory level.

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“…Watanabe et al [11] have pointed out that winter profiles are formed for relatively large wave steepness conditions, showing systematic increase bar volume with the increase of wave steepness. Results of this study agree with their view.…”

Section: Dimensionless Bar Volume-v Bar /L 0mentioning

confidence: 99%

“…The results of the model show a good agreement with those obtained by the formulate for sediment transport caused by waves and currents. A model was presented to describe onshore-offshore sand transport in the surf zone by Sunamura and Horikawa [11].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

The Effect of Cross-Shore Sediment Transport on Bar Parameters: an Experimental Study

Demirci¹,

Aköz²

2012

International Journal of Ocean System Engineering

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The cross-shore sediment transport in a coastal region causes the important changes in beach morphological properties. The accurate estimation of the cross-shore sediment transport is important for the designing of the marine structures such as seawalls, jetties, breakwaters etc, and the preventing coastal erosion and accretion due to on-off shore sediment transportation. In this study, the experiments on cross-shore sediment transport carried out in a laboratory wave channel for initial beach slopes of 1/8, 1/10 and 1/15. Using the regular waves with different deep-water wave steepness generated by a pedal-type wave generator, the geometrical characteristics of beach profiles under storm conditions and the parameters affecting on-off shore sediment transport are investigated for the beach materials having medium diameters of d 50 =0.25, 0.32, 0.45, 0.62 and 0.80 mm. The experimental results obtained from this study compared with previous experimental work and found to be of the same magnitude as the experimental measurements and followed the expected basic trend.

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Two Dimensional Beach Transformation Due to Waves

Cited by 108 publications

References 11 publications

Terrestrial Laser Scanner techniques in the assessment of tsunami impact on the Maddalena peninsula (south-eastern Sicily, Italy)

Terrestrial Laser Scanner techniques in the assessment of tsunami impact on the Maddalena peninsula (south-eastern Sicily, Italy)

Applicability of Suspended Sediment Concentration Formulae to Large-Scale Beach Morphological Changes

The Effect of Cross-Shore Sediment Transport on Bar Parameters: an Experimental Study

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