Unlocking the Potential of Fermentation in Cosmetics: A Review

Abstract

The cosmetic segment is a rapidly growing industry that has been challenged in recent years due to the origin and impact of its ingredients and manufacturing techniques. With a focus on reducing carbon dioxide emissions and improving the degradability of products, many conventional ingredients are being dismissed to meet more exigent regulations and consumer ethical demands. Biotechnology, and fermentation as the core technology, is a solution to support and drive more sustainable growth for the cosmetic industry. This review presents the latest research and development in fermentation applied to cosmetics and showcases multiple examples throughout all classes of ingredients: from functional compounds, such as oil and surfactants, to multi-faceted molecules with a wide spectrum of formulations and skin benefits derived from their emulsifying, antimicrobial or antioxidant properties. The bottlenecks associated with the commercialization of such ingredients, together with successful examples, are also discussed. The shift towards a bio-based beauty industry requires a combination of technical, regulatory and marketing efforts. Fermentation strategies to better utilize low-cost substrates and optimize microorganisms and processes will reduce overall costs, reducing the price gap with traditional methods of production. The testing, standardization and regulation of these new ingredients need to catch up with the fast research happening in the field. Finally, consumer communication is key to achieve a successful introduction of biotech ingredients in the market.

Anti-Inflammatory and Protective Effects of Water Extract and Bioferment from Sambucus nigra Fruit in LPS-Induced Human Skin Fibroblasts

“…The results obtained in this work showed the possibility of using S. nigra ferments obtained during fermentation with the use of kombucha as products characterized by broad biological activity and lack of cytotoxicity. The high potential of ferments obtained from various parts of plants has already been confirmed in many works of our group and other authors [ 26 , 28 , 40 ]. In addition, more and more research is focusing on fermented plant extracts, which are a rich source of antioxidants, vitamins, minerals, and polyphenols, as well as probiotics [ 41 ].…”

Use of Waste from the Food Industry and Applications of the Fermentation Process to Create Sustainable Cosmetic Products: A Review

“…Nevertheless, according to the literature review by Pérez-Rivero et al there are already examples of collaboration between the food industry and cosmetic manufactures which promote the circular economy and reducing agri-food waste [27]. NoPalm Ingredients in the Netherlands valorises agricultural wastes and other by-product streams as a nutrient source for oil-producing yeast.…”

“…On the other hand, Clean Food Group has lately signed an agreement with Doehler group to accelerate commercialization of their process based on fermentation of readyto-waste food stocks with a non-GM yeast to produce palm oil substitutes for food and cosmetics applications. Similarly, Genomatica and Unilever plan to join their forces to scale plant-based alternatives based on biotechnology in order to obtain value-added chemicals with potential application in the beauty and personal care products [27]. Furthermore, the Korean company LABIO ferments vegetable oils with Pseudozymas spp.…”

“…Microbial processing of food waste has opened new horizons for value addition to conventional extraction [148]. It needs renewable feedstock, such as biomass, and requires mild conditions of temperature and pressure to carry out the process, giving a lower environmental footprint than conventional chemical synthesis [27]. Many fermented products and fermentation by-products have already been introduced to the market, including fermented beverages, single cell proteins, single-cell oils, polysaccharides, dietary fibres, polyphenols, bio-pigments (carotenoids), fragrances, flavours (vanillin), essential oils, biopesticides, plant growth regulators, and enzymes.…”

“…The efficiency of the fermentation process and content of bioactive ingredients depends on the type of microorganism strains and conditions under which the process is carried out [98]. During the fermentation process, metabolites of bacteria and yeast are formed, such as malic, fumaric, and citric acids, which are intermediates in the Krebs cycle and act as rapid energy substrates for skin-cell mitochondria [27]. Fermentation-derived ingredients have many advantages when compared to those obtained by conventional chemical synthesis.…”