Per- and polyfluoroalkyl
substances (PFAS), a highly persistent
and potentially toxic class of chemicals, are added to cosmetics to
increase their durability and water resistance. To assess this potential
health and environmental risk, 231 cosmetic products purchased in
the U.S. and Canada were screened for total fluorine using particle-induced
gamma-ray emission spectroscopy. Of the eight categories tested, foundations,
mascaras, and lip products had the highest proportion of products
with high total fluorine ≥0.384 μg F/cm2.
Twenty-nine products including 20 with high total fluorine concentrations
were analyzed using targeted LC-MS/MS and GC-MS. PFAS concentrations
ranged from 22–10,500 ng/g product weight, with an average
and a median of 264 and 1050 ng/g product weights, respectively. Here,
6:2 and 8:2 fluorotelomer compounds, including alcohols, methacrylates,
and phosphate esters, were most commonly detected. These compounds
are precursors to PFCAs that are known to be harmful. The ingredient
lists of most products tested
did not disclose the presence of fluorinated compounds exposing a
gap in U.S. and Canadian labeling laws. The manufacture, use, and
disposal of cosmetics containing PFAS are all potential opportunities
for health and ecosystem harm. Given their direct exposure routes
into people, better regulation is needed to limit the widespread use
of PFAS in cosmetics.