Wave breaking in Boussinesq models for undular bores

Bjørkavåg, Magnar; Kalisch, Henrik

doi:10.1016/j.physleta.2011.02.060

Cited by 56 publications

(75 citation statements)

References 22 publications

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“…The wave-breaking effects have to be parameterised by incorporating additional terms in the mass and momentum equations (e.g. Musumeci et al 2005;Cienfuegos et al, 2010;Bjørkavåg and Kalisch, 2011;Tissier et al, 2012, Kazolea et., 2014. The challenge is to take the breaking process into account to ensure an accurate description of the surf zone, including the wave height decay and the setup development.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Are breaking waves, bores, surges and jumps the same flow?

Lubin

Chanson

2016

Environ Fluid Mech

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The flow structure in the aerated region of the roller generated by breaking waves remains a great challenge to study, with large quantities of entrained air and turbulence interactions making it very difficult to investigate in details. A number of analogies were proposed between breaking waves in deep or shallow water, tidal bores and hydraulic jumps. Many numerical models used to simulate waves in the surf zone do not implicitly simulate the breaking process of the waves, but are required to parameterise the wave-breaking effects, thus relying on experimental data. Analogies are also assumed to quantify the roller dynamics and the energy dissipation. The scope of this paper is to review the different analogies proposed in the literature and to discuss current practices. A thorough survey is offered and a discussion is developed an aimed at improving the use of possible breaking proxies. The most recent data are revisited and scrutinised for the use of most advanced numerical models to educe the surf zone hydrodynamics. In particular, the roller dynamics and geometrical characteristics are discussed. An open discussion is proposed to explore the actual practices and propose perspectives based on the most appropriate analogy, namely the tidal bore.

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Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Are breaking waves, bores, surges and jumps the same flow?

Lubin

Chanson

2016

Environ Fluid Mech

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“…In this case, a limiting amplitude for the existence of traveling waves can be found [1]. Note also that a time-dependent analysis of a singular profile in the viscous case has been provided in [10].…”

Section: Resultsmentioning

confidence: 94%

Nonexistence of Coherent Structures in Two-dimensional Inviscid Channel Flow

Kalisch

2012

Math. Model. Nat. Phenom.

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“…As part of our analysis, we formulate an approximate mass balance law associated with the Boussinesq scaling developed for flat bottoms in [1]. We also extend the wave breaking criterion from [4] to the case of uneven beds. The mass balance equation is used in quantifying wave reflection due to the bottom slope, and the wave breaking criterion is used to determine an approximate termination point for the shoaling curves.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Using the fully nonlinear potential flow wave model, Grilli et al [17] derived a criterion for wave breaking. In this paper, a different criterion of breaking solitary waves on a sloping bottom of a BBM-BBM type system is derived based on previous work in [4]. Characteristics such as the breaking index, the wave height, the water depth, and the maximum particle velocity at the breaking point are studied and the breaking indices are compared with those obtained by Grilli et al [17] and Chou et al [11].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

On the influence of wave reflection on shoaling and breaking solitary Waves

Senthilkumar¹

2016

Proc. Estonian Acad. Sci.

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Abstract. A coupled BBM system of equations is studied in the situation of water waves propagating over a decreasing fluid depth. A conservation equation for mass and also a wave breaking criterion, both valid in the Boussinesq approximation, are found. A Fourier collocation method coupled with a 4-stage Runge-Kutta time integration scheme is employed to approximate solutions of the BBM system. The mass conservation equation is used to quantify the role of reflection in the shoaling of solitary waves on a sloping bottom. Shoaling results based on an adiabatic approximation are analysed. Wave shoaling and the criterion of the breaking of solitary waves on a sloping bottom are studied. To validate the numerical model the simulation results are compared with reference results and a good agreement between them can be observed. Shoaling of solitary waves is calculated for two different types of mild slope model systems. Comparison with reference solutions shows that both of these models work well in their respective regimes of applicability.

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Wave breaking in Boussinesq models for undular bores

Cited by 56 publications

References 22 publications

Are breaking waves, bores, surges and jumps the same flow?

Are breaking waves, bores, surges and jumps the same flow?

Nonexistence of Coherent Structures in Two-dimensional Inviscid Channel Flow

On the influence of wave reflection on shoaling and breaking solitary Waves

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