Wave-driven sediment transport and beach-dune dynamics in a headland bay beach

Silva, Graziela Miot da; Mousavi, Seyed Mostafa Siadat; Jose, Felix

doi:10.1016/j.margeo.2012.07.015

Cited by 23 publications

(7 citation statements)

References 31 publications

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“…The southerly waves have a period of 12 seconds while the most frequent wave period is eight seconds for easterly waves. The mean significant wave heights are 1 · 15 and 2 m, respectively (Araújo et al ., ; Miot da Silva et al ., ). The mean tidal range is microtidal at 0 · 8 m (Schettini et al ., ; Carvalho et al ., ; Trucolo, ).…”

Section: Environmental Settingmentioning

confidence: 97%

“…The Moçambique and Joaquina barriers show marked alongshore variations in their exposure to the southerly prevailing winds and waves, type and dimensions of aeolian landforms, beach and surf zone morphodynamic type, grain size and foredune vegetation cover and diversity (Miot da Silva, ; Miot da Silva et al ., ; ). Thus, they are excellent locations to examine the control of environmental factors on barrier evolution.…”

Section: Environmental Settingmentioning

confidence: 97%

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Increasing rainfall, decreasing winds, and historical changes in Santa Catarina dunefields, southern Brazil

Silva

Hesp

2013

Earth Surf Processes Landf

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Morphological and vegetation changes on the Moçambique barrier dunefield system are examined for the period 1938-2002 from aerial photography, and a variety of factors are investigated as possible driving factors. Human factors include a decrease in grazing pressure and tree felling from the early 1960s onwards after 200 years of these activities, and fires. In the 1960s tree planting also took place. During the period 1963 to 1970 there was a marked decline in drift potential (DP -potential sand transport), and then a period of very low DPs (1970DPs ( -1974. This period falls within the time interval when vegetation cover significantly increased by~70% along the Moçambique barrier (from 1956 to 1978). During the 1960s to present, the rainfall increased. Analyses of other transgressive dunefields in Santa Catarina and Rio Grande do Sul states show similar trends so it is likely that climatic factors such as increasing rainfall and decreasing DPs are responsible for driving dunefield changes and vegetation colonization of the barriers.

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Section: Environmental Settingmentioning

confidence: 97%

Section: Environmental Settingmentioning

confidence: 97%

Increasing rainfall, decreasing winds, and historical changes in Santa Catarina dunefields, southern Brazil

Silva

Hesp

2013

Earth Surf Processes Landf

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“…World wave conditions (H s ) from published field studies and observational records, and the model input for this study. Published data comes from the following sources: (1) Ruggiero, et al [68]; (2) Goodwin, Freeman, and Blackmore [65]; (3) Loureiro et al [69]; (4) da Silva et al [70]; (5) Bastos et al [71]; (6) Sanderson and Eliot [72]; (7) Komar [73]; (8) Backstrom, Jackson, and Cooper [3]; (9) Chelli et al [74]; (10) Dai, Liu, Lei, and Zhang [1]; (11) Bowman et al [75]; (12) Bin Ab Razak [76]; (13) Benedet and List [49]; 14Silva, Baquerizo, Losada, and Mendoza [2]; (15) Hume et al [77]; (16) Bowman et al [78]; (17) Nienhuis, Ashton, Nardin, Fagherazzi, and Giosan [12]; and (18) George and Hill [79].…”

Section: Specifying Sediment Bypassing Potentialmentioning

confidence: 99%

Modeling Sediment Bypassing around Idealized Rocky Headlands

George

Largier

Pasternack

et al. 2019

JMSE

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Alongshore sediment bypassing rocky headlands remains understudied despite the importance of characterizing littoral processes for erosion abatement, beach management, and climate change adaptation. To address this gap, a numerical model sediment transport study was developed to identify controlling factors and mechanisms for sediment headland bypassing potential. Four idealized headlands were designed to investigate sediment flux around the headlands using the process-based hydrodynamic model Delft-3D and spectral wave model SWAN. The 120 simulations explored morphologies, substrate compositions, sediment grain sizes, and physical forcings (i.e., tides, currents, and waves) commonly observed in natural settings. A generalized analytical framework based on flow disruption and sediment volume was used to refine which factors and conditions were more useful to address sediment bypassing. A bypassing parameter was developed for alongshore sediment flux between upstream and downstream cross-shore transects to determine the degree of blockage by a headland. The shape of the headland heavily influenced the fate of the sediment by changing the local angle between the shore and the incident waves, with oblique large waves generating the most flux. All headlands may allow sediment flux, although larger ones blocked sediment more effectively, promoting their ability to be littoral cell boundaries. The controlling factors on sediment bypassing were determined to be wave angle, size, and shape of the headland, and sediment grain size.

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“…This sediment supply depends on the welding of nearshore bars (e.g. [30] , [31] ), gradients in longshore transport [33] , [34] or other nearshore processes (e.g. [35] ).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Spatio-Temporal Variability in Accretion and Erosion of Coastal Foredunes in the Netherlands: Regional Climate and Local Topography

et al. 2014

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Depending on the amount of aeolian sediment input and dune erosion, dune size and morphology change over time. Since coastal foredunes play an important role in the Dutch coastal defence, it is important to have good insight in the main factors that control these changes. In this paper the temporal variations in foredune erosion and accretion were studied in relation to proxies for aeolian transport potential and storminess using yearly elevation measurements from 1965 to 2012 for six sections of the Dutch coast. Longshore differences in the relative impacts of erosion and accretion were examined in relation to local beach width. The results show that temporal variability in foredune accretion and erosion is highest in narrow beach sections. Here, dune erosion alternates with accretion, with variability displaying strong correlations with yearly values of storminess (maximum sea levels). In wider beach sections, dune erosion is less frequent, with lower temporal variability and stronger correlations with time series of transport potential. In erosion dominated years, eroded volumes decrease from narrow to wider beaches. When accretion dominates, dune-volume changes are relatively constant alongshore. Dune erosion is therefore suggested to control spatial variability in dune-volume changes. On a scale of decades, the volume of foredunes tends to increase more on wider beaches. However, where widths exceed 200 to 300 m, this trend is no longer observed.

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Wave-driven sediment transport and beach-dune dynamics in a headland bay beach

Cited by 23 publications

References 31 publications

Increasing rainfall, decreasing winds, and historical changes in Santa Catarina dunefields, southern Brazil

Increasing rainfall, decreasing winds, and historical changes in Santa Catarina dunefields, southern Brazil

Modeling Sediment Bypassing around Idealized Rocky Headlands

Spatio-Temporal Variability in Accretion and Erosion of Coastal Foredunes in the Netherlands: Regional Climate and Local Topography

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