Wave evolution across the Louisiana shelf

Wave modelling in coastal and inner seas

“…A problem with such bottom type is that it presents a rather different mode of wave dissipation which is difficult to represent (e.g. Winterwerp et al, 2007;Holland and Elmore, 2008;Rogers and Holland, 2009;Engelstad et al, 2013). Idealized models have been derived that are based on a twolayer description of the water column in which surface waves drive internal waves at the interface between the nearly inviscid water and the highly viscous (and therefore dissipative) muddy bottom layer.…”

“…Idealized models have been derived that are based on a twolayer description of the water column in which surface waves drive internal waves at the interface between the nearly inviscid water and the highly viscous (and therefore dissipative) muddy bottom layer. Muddy areas may also affect the growth of short waves (Trainor, 2009) or lead to extensive sediment plumes (Engelstad et al, 2013). Mud rheology (characteristics including thickness, viscosity, density, elasticity, and plasticity) is difficult to estimate even from in situ data, since the mud changes when it is extracted from the water, and the depth of fluidization is highly nonstationary, even when overall mud thickness does not change.…”