Wave modelling in coastal and inner seas

Cavaleri, Luigi; Abdalla, Saleh; Benetazzo, Alvise; Bertotti, Luciana; Bidlot, Jean‐Raymond; Breivik, Øyvind; Carniel, Sandro; Jensen, Robert E.; Portilla‐Yandún, Jesús; Rogers, W. Erick; Roland, Aron; Sánchez‐Arcilla, Agustín; Smith, Jane McKee; Staneva, Joanna; Toledo, Yaron; Vledder, G.P. Van; Westhuysen, A. J. Van der

doi:10.1016/j.pocean.2018.03.010

Cited by 175 publications

(109 citation statements)

References 386 publications

(386 reference statements)

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“…For example, Clementi et al (2017) introduced a relatively reduced-complexity coupling of the mean momentum transfer of waves and wind speed stability parameter between the WAVEWATCH III wave model (Tolman et al, 2004) and NEMO ocean model codes. They demonstrated that for the Mediterranean Sea while the coupling was found to improve wave performance, there was limited impact on mean SST results over the 5-year study period.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Can wave coupling improve operational regional ocean forecasts for the north-west European Shelf?

et al. 2019

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Operational ocean forecasts are typically produced by modelling systems run using a forced mode approach. The evolution of the ocean state is not directly influenced by surface waves, and the ocean dynamics are driven by an external source of meteorological data which are independent of the ocean state. Model coupling provides one approach to increase the extent to which ocean forecast systems can represent the interactions and feedbacks between ocean, waves, and the atmosphere seen in nature. This paper demonstrates the impact of improving how the effect of waves on the momentum exchange across the ocean-atmosphere interface is represented through ocean-wave coupling on the performance of an operational regional ocean prediction system. This study focuses on the eddy-resolving (1.5 km resolution) Atlantic Margin Model (AMM15) ocean model configuration for the north-west European Shelf (NWS) region.A series of 2-year duration forecast trials of the Copernicus Marine Environment Monitoring Service (CMEMS) north-west European Shelf regional ocean prediction system are analysed. The impact of including ocean-wave feedbacks via dynamic coupling on the simulated ocean is discussed. The main interactions included are the modification of surface stress by wave growth and dissipation, Stokes-Coriolis forcing, and wave-height-dependent ocean surface roughness. Given the relevance to operational forecasting, trials with and without ocean data assimilation are considered.Summary forecast metrics demonstrate that the oceanwave coupled system is a viable evolution for future oper-ational implementation. When results are considered in more depth, wave coupling was found to result in an annual cycle of relatively warmer winter and cooler summer sea surface temperatures for seasonally stratified regions of the NWS. This is driven by enhanced mixing due to waves, and a deepening of the ocean mixed layer during summer. The impact of wave coupling is shown to be reduced within the mixed layer with assimilation of ocean observations. Evaluation of salinity and ocean currents against profile measurements in the German Bight demonstrates improved simulation with wave coupling relative to control simulations. Further, evidence is provided of improvement to simulation of extremes of sea surface height anomalies relative to coastal tide gauges.

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Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Can wave coupling improve operational regional ocean forecasts for the north-west European Shelf?

et al. 2019

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“…Despite these improvements, the quality of the wave forecasts is still not sufficient in the coastal and semienclosed seas (Cavaleri et al 2018). Their performance has not been extensively evaluated in complex coastal areas and / Published online: 3 December 2019 their results cannot be used with as high level of reliability as for the open sea.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

The importance of wind forcing in fjord wave modelling

et al. 2019

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Accurate predictions of surface ocean waves in coastal areas are important for a number of marine activities. In complex coastlines with islands and fjords, the quality of wind forcing significantly affects the results. We investigate the role of wind forcing on wave conditions in a fjord system partly exposed to open sea. For this reason, we implemented the wave model SWAN at the west coast of Norway using four different wind forcing. Wind and wave estimates were compared with observations from five measurement sites. The best results in terms of significant wave height are found at the sites exposed to offshore conditions using a wind input that is biased slightly high compared with the buoy observations. Positively biased wind input, on the other hand, leads to significant overestimation of significant wave height in more sheltered locations. The model also shows a poorer performance for mean wave period in these locations. Statistical results are supported by two case studies which also illustrate the effect of high spatial resolution in wind forcing. Detailed wind forcing is necessary in order to obtain a realistic wind field in complex fjord terrain, but wind channelling and lee effects may have unpredictable effects on the wave simulations. Pure wave propagation (no wind forcing) is not able to reproduce the highest significant wave height in any of the locations.

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“…Models such as ECMWF, AdCirc, Wavewatch III help provide a detailed description of the wind, currents and wave climate [32], both in terms of extremes and average values. In some cases, it is useful to statistically analyse the forcing provided by extensive databases (e.g., NOAA's Historical Hurricane Tracks [33]).…”

Section: Data Integration By Numerical Modellingmentioning

confidence: 99%

Vulnerability Analysis of the Venetian Littoral and Adopted Mitigation Strategy

Ruol

Martinelli

Favaretto

2018

Water

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This paper discusses the key aspects of the recent Coastal Plan of the Veneto Region (IT). Its aim is to propose a single mitigation strategy for coastal erosion that is valid for the whole Veneto Region, and possibly elsewhere, as well as a method to assign a priority level to any action. The suggested mitigation action against erosion depends on urbanization level, beach width, as well as cross-shore and long-shore sediment transport. The criterion used to give a priority level to mitigation actions is based on a vulnerability index that takes into account erosive tendency, existing coastal flooding hazards, coast value, environmental relevance, tourist pressure, urbanization level, the presence of production activities, and cultural heritage. A sample case featuring the littoral of Rosolina is also provided and includes a site description, the sediment budget, critical issues and possible mitigation measures.

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Wave modelling in coastal and inner seas

Cited by 175 publications

References 386 publications

Can wave coupling improve operational regional ocean forecasts for the north-west European Shelf?

Can wave coupling improve operational regional ocean forecasts for the north-west European Shelf?

The importance of wind forcing in fjord wave modelling

Vulnerability Analysis of the Venetian Littoral and Adopted Mitigation Strategy

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