Wave transformation in shoaling water

Abstract

A series of wave‐recorders was installed from the surf zone to a point nearly a mile offshore, to study the transformation of waves in shoaling water. Examples of data taken by the recorders are presented and the records are correlated with one another. The theory for waves traveling in shoaling water is given, and a table is presented for use in predicting the theoretical travel time for periodic waves on beaches of small constant slope. From the data obtained, it appears that under favorable circumstances wave records obtained in water as deep as 81 ft (below MLLW could be correlated with records obtained in the vicinity of the surf zone in 12 ft of water, the recorders being located nearly 4200 ft apart. Travel time is predicted quite well by theory.