The results of an experimental investigation on the damping action of submerged rectangular breakwaters are presented. The experimental data also are compared with published theories. A new theory is presented which compares more favorably with the experiments than the previous theories. Also given is a summary of all available published theoretical and experimental information on the damping action of trapezoidal and triangular breakwaters, reefs of various configurations, and plane barriers of various orientations.

A series of wave‐recorders was installed from the surf zone to a point nearly a mile offshore, to study the transformation of waves in shoaling water. Examples of data taken by the recorders are presented and the records are correlated with one another. The theory for waves traveling in shoaling water is given, and a table is presented for use in predicting the theoretical travel time for periodic waves on beaches of small constant slope. From the data obtained, it appears that under favorable circumstances wave records obtained in water as deep as 81 ft (below MLLW could be correlated with records obtained in the vicinity of the surf zone in 12 ft of water, the recorders being located nearly 4200 ft apart. Travel time is predicted quite well by theory.

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Study of Reletionashipo of Swell and Breaker Ohartaoteristios and the Transformation of Waves in Shoaling Water CoAit'rot onr-222(15), Project M 26 6001 Wave Trans formations Preliminary Repert Series 29, Issue 54 January 1953 A, INTRODUCTIO Winds blowirg over the ooean generate waves on the water surface which are as variable as the winds which create then. They vary in height, length, and breadth* Within the storm area they are known as wind waves and often appear as irregular mounds (1pre 1). After leaving the storm area they decrease in height and inorease in length and breadth due to dispersion, air resistance, viscosity, turbulence, etc They transform into swell, and eventually they may enter shoaling water along coasts, finally breaking over refs, against cliffs, and along beaches.

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