Work‐relief ratios and imbalances of load application in sport climbing: Another link to overuse‐induced injuries?

Abstract

An imbalanced load application of the upper extremity may contribute to overuse-induced injuries of the fingers. Thus, the present study evaluated load-application symmetry between the right and the left hand and its work-relief ratios (WRR) depending on climbing ability and pre-exhaustion level. Twenty-eight sport climbers (age: 29 ± 8 years; body mass index: 22 ± 2 kg/m(2); years of climbing: 10 ± 6; climbing level: 6+ UIAA to 9 UIAA) were assigned to a group of recreational (≤8-UIAA, n = 14) or a group of ambitious (≥8 UIAA, n = 14) climbers. Blood lactate and perceived exertion level were recorded at the end of the climbing attempt. Load application and WRR were derived from video analysis separately for the left and the right hand. Differences in load-application time between the left (47 ± 4%) and the right (53 ± 4%) hand (P < 0.001) were observed. Irrespective of side differences, the overall WRR was 5:1. Increasing climbing level leads to a more symmetric load application (r = -0.42, P < 0.03). Differences of lactate concentration and exertion level were found between the pre- and the non-pre-exhausted group. Depending on climbing ability and exhaustion level, load application for the dominant hand (right) prevails. Further longitudinal studies should focus on imbalanced load application and overuse-induced climbing injuries.

Differences in Oxygenation Kinetics Between the Dominant and Nondominant Flexor Digitorum Profundus in Rock Climbers

“…This is further supported by an increased reliance on the dominant arm when fatigued, shown by a decrease in the work to relief ratio 5 . It is highly probable that the differences between flexors in both Donath et al 5 research and the present study are linked to excessive reliance on the dominant hand leading to training adaptations. Future studies should look to implement climbing specific training programmes that focus on forearm strength and endurance performance to provide clarity on this speculation, and ultimately highlight the most effective methods for trainers/coaches.…”

“…It is possible to speculate that the handedness observed by Donath et al 5 is a compensatory mechanism for poor metabolic performance in the non-dominant arm. This is further supported by an increased reliance on the dominant arm when fatigued, shown by a decrease in the work to relief ratio 5 . It is highly probable that the differences between flexors in both Donath et al 5 research and the present study are linked to excessive reliance on the dominant hand leading to training adaptations.…”

“…As such determining optimal training methods for the FDP may improve both metabolic clearance and endurance performance (a major determinant of sport rock climbing performance 12 ). Uneven load application time between the dominant and non-dominant hand has been demonstrated in climbers, with the dominant hand receiving less relief time and longer proportions of work-time 5 . It is possible to speculate that the handedness observed by Donath et al 5 is a compensatory mechanism for poor metabolic performance in the non-dominant arm.…”

“…Uneven load application time between the dominant and non-dominant hand has been demonstrated in climbers, with the dominant hand receiving less relief time and longer proportions of work-time 5 . It is possible to speculate that the handedness observed by Donath et al 5 is a compensatory mechanism for poor metabolic performance in the non-dominant arm. This is further supported by an increased reliance on the dominant arm when fatigued, shown by a decrease in the work to relief ratio 5 .…”

“…Recent research suggests that utilisation of oxygen in the FDP, rather than the ability to deliver oxygen to the limb (brachial artery blood flow) is more important for determining performance 4 . Asymmetry in the load application time between the dominant and non-dominant hand has been demonstrated in rock climbers 5 . This irregularity resulted in the dominant hand receiving less relief time and longer periods of work time.…”