Information on plant species, natural dyes and the dying process of the yarn of ikat weaving in South Central Timor is still minimal and not well documented. Therefore, this study aimed to identify natural dye in South Central Timor. The samples were collected by exploration methods. Parts of plants, dyeing processes, and kinds of color were recorded based on observation, interviews with craftsmen and documentation. Our results showed that there are 7 plant species were successfully identified, Curcuma longa L., Indigofera tinctoria L., Morinda citrifolia L., Phyllanthus reticulates Poir, Phaseolus lunatus L., and Tectona grandis. The plant organs used as a source of natural dye are leaves, barks, rhizome, and roots. The method of processing was to be pounded, squeezed, soaked in water and the color produced was red, dark blue, yellow, black, and green.
The aims of this study are to find out what materials that used to produce red color on ikat weaving threads; what factors affect the making of red color on ikat weaving threads; the process of plants processing that used as a natural red colorant for the thread; and the kinds of red color produced from natural colorant plants. The samples were taken from the Kupang Regency area consists of three villages that are: Oesao, Sahraen, and Apraen village. The sample that took from three villages is Noni root, teak leaves, betel nut, and cherry fruit as the additional sample that was obtained from Dutalia Supermarket in Kupang city. The method that used in this study is the qualitative method with documenting technique and experiment. This study was done from January to March in the Biology Laboratorium of Universitas Kristen Artha Wacana, Kupang. The result of this study was found 11 red colors that produced from 4 kinds of plant that used for coloring the jark they are Noni root produced 4 colors (deep maroon, strawberry red, cardinal red, and terraccota. Cherry fruit produced 5 colors (coral pink, powder pink, hot pink, baby pink, and watermelon pink). Teak leaves produced the red-violet color and the last is Betel nut produced 2 colors (rust brown).
Information of plant species, mordants, and the mordanting process of the yarn of ikat weaving in Hundihopo village are still minimal and not well documented. Therefore, the aim of this study was to identify biomordant in Hundihopo Village. Samples were collected by exploration methods. Parts of plants, mordanting process, and kinds of color were recorded based on observation, interview with craftsmen and documentation. A total of 12 species were traditionally used as biomordants in Hundihopo village namely Sterculia foetida L., Erythrina varegata, Areca catechu L., Ceriops tagal, Datura metel, Calotropis gigantea, Abrus precatorius L., Symplocos sp., Jatropha curcas L., Citrus aurantifolia, beura and faliti. The plant organs used as a source of mordant are leaves, barks, fruits, and seeds. The method of processing was to be burned, crushed, boiled and soaked and the resulted color was red, black and yellow.
East Nusa Tenggara (NTT) is a province that has cultural diversity. One of the cultures that are the pride of the people of East Nusa Tenggara is ikat weaving. In the observation stage related to this research, a small group of weaving craftsmen (Runpah and Narwastu) was found still use plants as natural dyes. The color produced from these plants is very distinctive, and besides using plant dyes, other ingredients are also added to prevent natural color fading. This study aims to determine the types of mordant plants, the used organs, the processing method, and the produced color by the craftsmen in Merbaun Village, West Amarasi District, Kupang Regency. The method used in this research is descriptive qualitative. The results of the research in Merbaun Village found 8 types of plants that were used as mordants, including Kepuh (Sterculia foetida L), Hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis L), kesambi (Schleichera oleosa L), candlenut (Aleurites moluccana (L.) Willd, kapok randu alas (Bombax ceiba L)), pomegranate (Punica granatum L.), Loba (Symplocos sp.), and Utaruna, plant organs that are used, namely, fruit skins, leaves, bark, fruit and pulp. The processing process is burning, pounding, soaking, cooking and the resulting colors are yellow and red.
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