Context Phyllanthus emblica L. (Euphorbiaceae) (amla), Manilkara zapota L.P. Royen (Sapotaceae) (sapota) and silymarin are reported to contain antioxidant effects. However, information on other biological activities relating to the anti-aging properties is limited. Objective To compare in vitro antioxidants, anti-collagenase (MMP-1 and MMP-2) and anti-elastase properties as well as the phenolic and flavonoid contents of amla, sapota and silymarin as potential anti-aging ingredients. Materials and methods The ethanol amla and sapota fruit extracts were prepared by three cycles of maceration with 24 h duration each. The total phenolic (TPC) and flavonoid (TFC) contents were determined. The antioxidant capacity was evaluated by DPPH and ABTS assays. The effects of MMP-1, MMP-2 and elastase inhibitions were determined by using the EnzChek Õ assay kits (Molecular-Probes, Eugene, OR). Results Amla exhibited the highest in TPC (362.43 ± 11.2 mg GAE/g) while silymarin showed the highest in TFC (21.04 ± 0.67 mg QE/g). Results of antioxidant activity by DPPH and ABTS methods showed that amla possessed the most potent capacity with IC 50 values of 1.70 ± 0.07 and 4.45 ± 0.10 mg/mL, respectively. Highest inhibitions against MMP-1, MMP-2 and elastase were detected for sapota with IC 50 values of 89.61 ± 0.96, 86.47 ± 3.04 and 35.73 ± 0.61 mg/mL, respectively. Discussion and conclusion Test extracts offered anti-aging properties in different mechanisms. Amla showed the highest phenolic content and antioxidant property with moderate anticollagenase. Silymarin exhibited measurable flavonoid content with anti-elastase effect. Sapota showed the highest collagenase and elastase inhibitions with moderate antioxidant effect. Thus, extracts might be added as a mixture to gain the overall anti-aging effects.ARTICLE HISTORY
ABSTRACT:The fetal epidermal barrier undergoes rapid development during late gestation despite conditions injurious to the skin postnatally, i.e. prolonged exposure to water (urine) and noxious substances such as pancreatic chymotrypsin. Nevertheless, at birth, term newborns have a superb epidermal barrier. Concomitant with formation of the stratum corneum in utero, vernix caseosa forms a natural multifunctional cream separating the skin surface from the amniotic fluid with possible unique barrier properties. Therefore, we investigated the effect of native vernix, synthetic vernix, and Desitin ® on penetration of chymotrypsin, a proteolytic enzyme present in both developing epidermis and meconium. ␣-Chymotrypsin penetration through test materials was conducted in vitro using a modified Franz diffusion cell. The presence of ␣-chymotrypsin in vernix and a possible inhibitory effect of vernix on ␣-chymotrypsin activity were investigated. Vernix films significantly impeded chymotrypsin penetration compared with controls during 24-h exposure experiments. ␣-Chymotryptic activity in vernix was undetectable, and vernix showed no endogenous inhibition of such activity. Both synthetic vernix and Desitin ® significantly impeded ␣-chymotrypsin penetration compared with controls during 9-h exposure experiments. With respect to the developing epidermal barrier, these results are consistent with the hypothesis that vernix films retain endogenous (epidermal) chymotrypsin while preventing exposure to exogenous (pancreatic) chymotrypsin. T he intrauterine development of the human skin barrier as an interface between the internal and external environment is critical for postnatal survival of the organism. One of the most striking changes during late gestation of pregnancy is the presence of vernix caseosa on the fetal skin surface. Vernix is a viscous, whitish, pastelike material that overlies the fetal stratum corneum (1). By composition, vernix is mainly composed of water (80%), lipid (10.3%), and protein (9.1%) (2). It consists of a lipid matrix containing detached corneocytes derived from possible remnants of the epitrichium, the differentiating fetal epidermis, and the pilosebaceous unit (3,4). Vernix lipid is, thus, composed of two types of lipid: sebaceous lipid and stratum corneum lipid (5-8). The continuous (nonlamellar) phase of vernix lipid surrounding the cellular components has a low surface energy and results in a highly unwettable material located at the fetal skin surface (9). This interfacial hydrophobic material has been investigated as a defense against infection both pre-and postnatally with beneficial physicochemical properties providing barrier protection and facilitating development of the acid mantle (10 -12).Paradoxically, the fetal skin barrier undergoes rapid development during late gestation under conditions of total immersion in amniotic fluid. In vitro, skin culturists must raise human skin to an air interface to promote barrier development (13,14). This raises the biologic question of how the human f...
peak temperature are significantly decreased vs. the untreated starting substrate. However, on dialysis of the fibers in deionized water this decrease is shown to be completely reversible, returning the enthalpy and temperature to that of the untreated hair. It is proposed that the decrease is due to the incorporation of formulation components such as the alkalizer and surfactants etc. and metal ions such as calcium and magnesium from the tap wash water. These components are predicted to have a non-permanent effect on the salt bridges and hydrogen bonds and hence the rigidity or viscosity of the matrix. We have compared the denaturation temperature with the tensile properties of the fiber after treatment both before and after removal of actives from the fiber. SynopsisDuring combing of hair, longer fiber breaks (>2.5 cm) occur principally by impact loading of looped crossover hairs, while short segment breaks (<2.5 cm) occur primarily by end wrapping. Brushing provides breakage similarly but with a higher ratio of long-to-short segment breaks, and the ratio of long-to-short segment breaks (L/S) is a good way to follow these two pathways of breakage under different conditions. For example, bleaching hair, a longer comb stroke, increasing fiber curvature, wet combing versus dry combing, and brushing versus combing all provide for an increase in long segment breaks and this ratio, with the largest effect produced by brushing.There is a continuing need for hair care formulas to deliver superior conditioning benefits with highly efficient deposition of hair-enhancing components. In this paper, we describe high-charge-density (3.0 mEq/g) cassia hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (cassia HPTC), a quaternized galactomannan from the endosperm of Cassia tora and Cassia obtusifolia. Cassia HPTC is shown to participate in the coacervate phase of conditioning shampoos, from which it is deposited onto hair to provide conditioning benefits. Cryoscanning electron microscopy and time-offlight secondary ion mass spectrometry were used to observe and characterize the cassia HPTC deposits left on hair. The high-chargedensity cassia HPTC resulted in improved deposition efficiency compared with a quaternized guar-containing formula. Cassia HPTC offers benefits as an alternative to traditional cationic polymers as conditioning agents or as an adjunct conditioner to decrease the amount of cationic polymer needed to achieve the desired conditioning performance.
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