No abstract

Seam pucker is one of the most important aspects of garment quality in the sewing process. Recently, automatic sewing systems have been developed and seam pucker or other defects would have to be automatically inspected in these systems. Two systems of automatic, contactless measurement of seam pucker have been developed. One of the measurement systems, with which surface shape of seam pucker was measured, is based on laser technology. Intensity of reflected ultrasonic wave is measured using another measurement system. The laser measurement system has been applied to moderate or severe seam pucker and the ultrasonic wave system has been applied to the accurate evaluation of very small seam pucker. The result of the evaluation by machine has to match the result of subjective evaluation by humans. To verify this, samples of seam pucker were evaluated using five judges. With the measurement data of surface shape of these samples, the power spectra of the wave form of seam pucker are calculated. Analyses and correlates the relationship between objective measurement and subjective evaluation by discriminant analysis, with the result of subjective evaluation and the power spectra of the samples. Having obtained these relationships, the degree of seam pucker can be measured objectively by both systems.

Abstract

We developed a three-dimensional apparel CAD system which simulated sample making and draping processes. In this paper, we explain the sample making system. Using this system, we can predict the shape of garment without actually making and fitting it. The basic idea for the system is that the natural shapes of garments are determined by four main factors, namely, mechanical properties of material fabrics, geometrical and topological shapes of paper patterns, shape of the human body and the way of dressing. The predicted shape of a garment changes according to these four factors. For example, there is some difference between the same pattern worn by different persons. Here we focus on the mechanical formulation of paper patterns and garments. To formulate them, we use the finite difference energy method which is one of the finite element discretization procedures. In terms of structure analysis, to predict the shape of garments is a large deformation and contact problem. To solve the large deformation problem, total Lagrangian formulation is employed in which 2nd Piola-Kirchhoff stress and Green-Lagrange strain are used. As for the contact problem, the existence of the human body is interpreted as a constraint condition. So, we describe the formulation of body surface. Finally we give some examples to show that this system is applicable to a wide range of garments.