1,2,3,4-Butanetetracarboxylic acid and all- cis-1,2,3,4-cyclopentanetetracarboxylic acid have been studied as durable press reagents for cotton. They quickly form ester-type crosslinks in the cellulose when applied to fabric by pad-dry-cure techniques. Weak bases have proven to be active catalysts, one of the most effective being mono-sodium phosphate. Durable press smoothness ratings of 3.8–4.4 were imparted by either tetracarboxylic acid. The amount of tetracarboxylic acid required could be decreased by two-thirds by having citric or tartaric acid present as a co-reactant additive. In durability to home laundering, finishes from butanetetracarboxylic acid far surpassed those from cyclopentanetetracarboxylic acid, and most of the durable press performance was retained through 65 washing and drying cycles with a wash temperature of 50°C (122°F) and a pH of 9.8 using a standard detergent. The strength retentions, bending moments, and wrinkle recovery angles of treated fabric were comparable to those imparted by dimethyloldihydroxyethyleneurea.

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Durable‐press finishing agents that neither contain nor release formaldehyde when applied to cotton fabrics are reviewed and compared with conventional N‐methylolamides in regard to fabric wrinkle resistance, smooth drying properties, strength retention and yellowing imparted. The need for agents that are not derived from formaldehyde results from international recognition that formaldehyde is a probable human carcinogen. When formaldehyde‐free cellulose crosslinking agents are screened to eliminate those having toxicity, odour and environmental problems of their own, the most likely candidates are seen to be polycarboxylic acids and 1,3‐dimethyl‐4, 5‐dihydroxy‐ethyleneurea (also known as DHDMI). These differ in cost and effectiveness, and will require further research and development to become fully practical.

The reaction of polycarboxylic acids with cotton at elevated temperature has been investigated as a function of partial neutralization of the carboxylic acid with sodium carbonate or triethylamine. A high level of cellulose cross-linking was realized with a variety of polycarboxylic acids having three or more carboxyl groups per molecule, although only partial esterihcation of the carboxyl groups occurs in this process. The use of polycarhoxylic acids in the form of their partial salts results in broader applicability of this rapid esterification process of cross-linking, in improved add-ons and performance characteristics of the modified cotton, and in reduced acid tendering of the treated fabrics.

We examined catalyrtic activities of mono- or disodium salts of fumaric, maleic, and itaconic acids for the reaction of 1,2,3,4-butanetetracarboxylic acid ( BTCA ) with cotton cellulose. Evidence for esterification and crosslinking of cellulose with BTCA in the presence of these carboxylic acid salts was shown by improved durable press rating and conditioned wrinkle recovery angles of the treated fabric and the presence of ester groups in the treated fabric by FTIR analyses. In addition, FTIR and FT- Raman analyses revealed that these carboxylic acid salts did not participate in formation of permanent linkages with cellulose and BTCA.