Different types of chemical treatment of textile are widely applied in advanced textile. Finishing of textile can provide additional functional properties for products or/and to improve the appearance of final product as well as to improve their mechanical properties. In this research the influence of the industrial treatment of viscose linings on the parameters of fabric surface friction, on fabric surface appearance as well as on the slippage resistance of yarns at a seam was investigated. Raw, dyed, dyed and softened, dyed and non-slip finished plain weaved linings were investigated. The slippage resistance of yarns at a seam in woven fabrics was evaluated according to standard EN ISO 13936-1:2004. The friction was investigated according to the standard DIN 53375 in a fabric-fabric friction pair. Surface of raw, dyed, dyed and softened viscose lining was investigated using SEM. The obtained results have shown that the friction parameters as well as the parameters of seam slippage resistance of dyed or dyed and softened fabrics were higher than the ones of raw fabric. The highest differences in those parameters were obtained for lining that was dyed and treated with non-slip finishing. That type of finishing influenced the break of lining yarns without typical to the other investigated linings slipping near a stitching line.

http://dx.doi.org/10.5755/j01.ms.17.2.485

In the present study, the new methods for the investigation of the yarn slippage at the sewn seams in woven fabrics and for the determination of the parameters of yarn pulling out from woven fabrics were suggested. The original test methods capable to imitate similar to the real clothing wearing conditions, to evaluate the influence of external friction, of deformation method and of the position of seam allowances in respect to stitching line on the yarn slippage parameters were designed. Applying the new method based on the yarn pulling out from woven fabric with sewn seam, the analysis of the friction that occurs between warps and wefts during their sliding was done. Consequently, the behavior of the sewn seams in woven fabrics was analyzed applying the linear regression model which describes the dependence between the parameters such as: yarn pull out force F pull-out , yarn pull out displacement ε pull-out , the woven fabrics' mechanical characteristics such as: bending rigidity in warp direction B1, fabric elongation in warp direction E100-1 and yarn slippage at sewn seam parameter (seam opening d). The created three-cluster model enabled to split the investigated woven fabrics into three statistically different groups.