The Evaluation of Yarn Slippage at the Sewn Seam in Woven Fabrics Using the New Methods

Abstract

In the present study, the new methods for the investigation of the yarn slippage at the sewn seams in woven fabrics and for the determination of the parameters of yarn pulling out from woven fabrics were suggested. The original test methods capable to imitate similar to the real clothing wearing conditions, to evaluate the influence of external friction, of deformation method and of the position of seam allowances in respect to stitching line on the yarn slippage parameters were designed. Applying the new method based on the yarn pulling out from woven fabric with sewn seam, the analysis of the friction that occurs between warps and wefts during their sliding was done. Consequently, the behavior of the sewn seams in woven fabrics was analyzed applying the linear regression model which describes the dependence between the parameters such as: yarn pull out force F pull-out , yarn pull out displacement ε pull-out , the woven fabrics' mechanical characteristics such as: bending rigidity in warp direction B1, fabric elongation in warp direction E100-1 and yarn slippage at sewn seam parameter (seam opening d). The created three-cluster model enabled to split the investigated woven fabrics into three statistically different groups.

Investigation of factors affecting the seam slippage of garments

“…Therefore, some researches revealed that seam slippage results from the character of yarn systems in the fabric, such as the bending rigidity of fabric yarns, warp and weft yarn elongation, type of weaving yarn, [12][13][14] the friction between fabric yarns and sewing yarns, which is also a very important factor causing seam slippage, especially in very smooth fiber types, where it leads to a high yarn migration, and the seam slippage decreases with the increasing yarnto-yarn friction. 15,16 The conversion of two-dimensional (2D) fabric into three-dimensional (3D) garments not only involves a suitable selection of fabric, but also optimization of the sewing parameters, so as to yield a satisfactory garment. Sewing parameters include the seam type, sewing thread, stitch type, stitch density, needle size, the pressing foot and so on.…”

The influence of weft density, weft yarn count and finishing on slippage resistance of yarns at seam

“…072 and the weave of the fabric. Bačkauskaitė et al [14] suggested new methods for the investigation of the yarn slippage at the sewn seam in woven fabrics, and for the determination of the parameters of yarn pulling out from woven fabrics based on the analysis of friction between fabric yarn systems. The obtained results of the yarn pulling out from the sewn woven fabric are significant to explain the yarn slippage at the sewn seam in woven fabrics in respect to a friction aspect.…”