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Magnesium carbonate, or 'chalk', is used by rock climbers to dry their hands to increase the coefficient of friction, thereby improving the grip of the holds. To date, no scientific research supports this practice; indeed, some evidence suggests that magnesium carbonate could decrease the coefficient of friction. Fifteen participants were asked to apply a force with the tip of their fingers to hold a flattened rock (normal force), while a tangential force pulled the rock away. The coefficient of friction--that is, the ratio between the tangential force (pulling the rock) and the normal force (applied by the participants)--was calculated. Coating (chalk vs no chalk), dampness (water vs no water) and rock (sandstone, granite and slate) were manipulated. The results showed that chalk decreased the coefficient of friction. Sandstone was found to be less slippery than granite and slate. Finally, water had no significant effect on the coefficient of friction. The counter-intuitive effect of chalk appears to be caused by two independent factors. First, magnesium carbonate dries the skin, decreasing its compliance and hence reducing the coefficient of friction. Secondly, magnesium carbonate creates a slippery granular layer. We conclude that, to improve the coefficient of friction in rock climbing, an effort should be made to remove all particles of chalk; alternative methods for drying the fingers are preferable.

To reduce air resistance, time trial cyclists and triathletes lower their torso angle. The aim of this study was to investigate the effect of lowering time trial torso angle positions on muscle activation patterns and crank torque coordination. It was hypothesized that small torso angles yield a forward shift of the muscle activation timing and crank torque. Twenty-one trained cyclists performed three exercise bouts at 70% maximal aerobic power in a time trial position at three different torso angles (0°, 8°, and 16°) at a fixed cadence of 85 rpm. Measurements included surface electromyography, crank torques and gas exchange. A significant increase in crank torque range and forward shift in peak torque timing was found at smaller torso angles. This relates closely with the later onset and duration of the muscle activation found in the gluteus maximus muscle. Torso angle effects were only observed in proximal monoarticular muscles. Moreover, all measured physiological variables (oxygen consumption, breathing frequency, minute ventilation) were significantly increased with lowering torso angle and hence decreased the gross efficiency. The findings provide support for the notion that at a cycling intensity of 70% maximal aerobic power, the aerodynamic gains outweigh the physiological/biomechanical disadvantages in trained cyclists.

This experiment investigated the prediction of load force (LF) in impulsive collisions inferred from anticipatory adjustments of grip force (GF) used to stabilise a hand-held object. Subjects used a precision grip to hold the object between thumb and index finger of their right hand and used the arm either: (1) to move the object to produce a collision by hitting the lower end of a pendulum, causing it to swing to one of three target angles, or (2) to hold the object still while receiving a collision produced by the experimenter releasing the pendulum from one of three angles. Visual feedback of the pendulum's trajectory was available in the production task only. In all conditions, subjects increased GF in advance of the collision. In receiving the collision without advance information, subjects set GF levels to the mid-range of the experienced forces. When subjects possessed knowledge about the maximum angle of pendulum swing - either because they were going to produce it or because they were verbally informed - magnitude of the anticipatory-GF magnitude response was scaled to the predicted LF magnitude. Furthermore, GF was scaled to LF with a higher gain when producing compared to receiving the collision. This suggests that updating forward models through a semantic route is not as powerful as when the updating is achieved through the more direct route of dynamic exploration.

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