No abstract

Sea state is a key variable in ocean and coastal dynamics. The sea state is either sparsely measured by wave buoys and satellites or modelled over large scales. Only a few attempts have been devoted to sea state measurements covering a large domain; in particular its estimation from optical images. With optical technologies becoming omnipresent, optical images offer incomparable spatial resolution from diverse sensors such as shore-based cameras, airborne drones (unmanned aerial vehicles/UAVs), or satellites. Here, we present a standalone methodology to derive the water surface elevation anomaly induced by wind-generated ocean waves from optical imagery. The methodology was tested on drone and satellite images and compared against ground truth. The results show a clear dependence on the relative azimuth view angle in relation to the wave crest. A simple correction is proposed to overcome this bias. Overall, the presented methodology offers a practical way of estimating ocean waves for a wide range of applications.

No abstract

Alternative wave transfer methodologies from deep to shallow water that aim at reducing the computational time in cases where the full propagation of a large number of wave climates is often prohibitive are defined and tested against full spectral propagation using complex measured wave climates. A proposed method is presented in this work which is able to accurately reproduce the shape transformation of directional spectra while significantly reducing the computational time. Another transfer method is also validated, which can achieve relatively good results when there is no spectral information and only statistical wave parameters (e.g. significant wave height, peak period and mean wave direction) are available. Finally, an application of the proposed method in the framework of energy resource quantification in Chile is presented.

* Direcciones con bajo número de casos por lo que el error estándar del estimador estadístico promedio de |e% Hm0 | es mayor