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Ultraviolet (UV) radiations can act in different ways on the functionalization of textiles, through pre-or posttreatments, in order to modify their behavior in dyeing and finishing processes. In cotton fiber, unlike the wool, the UV absorption is not due to any of the structural groups of the normal cellulosic chains and can only be attributed to "impurities" or "faults" bearing carbonyl and/or carboxyl groups. In fact, UV irradiation coupled with mild oxidation can improve some properties of the cotton fibers such as pilling resistance, water swelling, and dyeability. Therefore, the process of differential dyeing with direct and reactive dyes assisted by UV irradiation was studied and interesting differential chromatic effects were obtained by a UV posttreatment capable to fade dyeing. On the other hand, the surface modification of cotton fabrics by UV curing and UV grafting with suitable chemicals was pursued to obtain finishing treatments able to confer oil and/or water repellency. Finally, antimicrobial finishing by chitosan UV grafting was proposed as valid environmental friendly method to confer a satisfactory washing-resistant antimicrobial activity to cotton fabrics even with low polymer add-on.

Experiments were conducted to investigate the ultraviolet irradiation of wool fabric as a pretreatment for differential dyeing. Wool fabric was irradiated using a medium‐pressure mercury lamp in order to obtain, on the irradiated area, increased dye uptake under the same dyeing conditions as untreated wool. The chemical modification of the fibre surface as a result of ultraviolet irradiation was confirmed by an increase in metal ion absorption and hydrophilicity, in agreement with Fourier Transform‐infrared–attenuated total reflectance spectra, although scanning electron microscopy showed that the fibre morphology was unaffected. A selection of 1:1 metal‐complex dyes was used to show the maximum colour difference between irradiated and untreated areas of the fabric. The experiments focused on two effects: a double face with the same shade but different depths (greater depth on the treated side), and a double face with different shades. The latter effect was achieved by dyeing the irradiated fabrics with mixtures of acid and metal‐complex dyes. Rubbing and washing fastness evaluations at 50 °C confirmed that the dyeings after irradiation with the selected 1:1 metal‐complex dyes scored identically to conventional dyeings.