Knitted fabrics with different quantity of elastane, conspicuous by high viscosity and elasticity, having one of the most important performance properties - resistance to pilling are often used in the production of high quality sportswear. During technological process imitating operating conditions, the behaviour of knitted fabrics may be changed by different industrial softeners from 12 % to 20 % of active substance, for example fatty acid condensate (Tubingal 5051) or silicone micro emulsion (Tubingal SMF). The aim of this investigation is to define the influence of fibrous composition and chemical softeners to the propensity of fuzzing and pilling of plain and plated jersey pattern knitted fabrics. The results of investigations showed that fibrous composition and thickness of materials (up to 6 %) and washing as well as softening (from 33 % to 67 %) change the resistance of knitted fabrics to pilling.
Spatial behaviour of knitted materials with bonded seams under biaxial tensile loading is analysed in this work. The objects of the research were plain jersey and rib 1×1 polyester knitted materials with elastane (93 % PES, 7 % EL). Two thermoplastic polyurethane (PU) films different in thickness (75 μm and 150 μm) were used. For each sample of knitted material and thermoplastic film five types of samples with bonded seams (10 mm in length) were prepared by changing the orientation of knitted materials pieces, i. e. parallel/parallel, parallel/bias, parallel/perpendicular, bias/bias and bias/perpendicular. The effect of thermoplastic films type and the effect of knitted materials orientation in seam was analysed on the basis of biaxial punching characteristics-maximal punching force P (N) and maximal punching height H (mm). The changes of tested specimens strength and deformation were compared before and after their cyclical fatigue loading (50 cycles of punching force P = 50 N). The obtained results have shown that changes before and after cyclical fatigue loading are mostly determined by the type of thermoplastic film, but not effected by the orientation of knitted materials pieces in bonded seam.
The effect of three-layer weft knitted spacer material content and structure upon the characteristics of uniaxial tension, biaxial punching before and after fatigue punching, and at multi cycle low-stress (wearing level) punching were investigated. Three different spacer structures were knitted using four types of the same 20 tex linear density spun yarns. For three-layer weft knitted samples, innovative fibers, which are used in the production of functional clothing, were selected: Coolplus® 100% polyester (PES); Trevira CS® 100% PES; 60% PES; 40%PES, 60% PES with 0.02% carbon fiber and 67% cotton, 33% PES with 0.02% carbon fiber. It was defined that the samples, which have a plain jersey knitting pattern in the face and back layers, and a similar position of spacer yarns on the dial and cylinder needles, have the highest values of mass per unit area, but 1 × 1 tuck stitches in the face layer have a greater effect for material thickness. Besides, 1 × 1 tuck stitches in the face layer have a greater effect upon the uniaxial behavior and anisotropy of three-layer weft knitted spacer materials than on spacer yarn position in the connecting layer. The investigations of biaxial fatigue punching up to 50 N, which corresponds to wearing conditions, showed that the most stable and less deformable materials were the three-layer weft knitted spacer materials with a plain jersey knitting pattern in the face and back layers and a similar position of spacer yarns on the dial and cylinder needles. They also were characterized by the highest mass per unit area and medium thickness.
In this research uniaxial tension behaviour of knitted materials with bonded seams is analysed. The objects of the investigation were two types of knitted materials, having the same fibre composition (93 % PES, 7 % EL), but different in knitting pattern, i. e. plain single jersey and 1 × 1 rib. Bonded overlap seams were formed by changing the orientation of knitted materials strips, i. e. parallel/parallel, parallel/bias, parallel/perpendicular, bias/bias and bias/perpendicular. The strips of each knitted material were joined by two types of thermoplastic polyurethane (PU) films different in thickness (75 m and 150 m). Mechanical characteristics of bonded seams were defined in longitudinal tension direction direction. During uniaxial tension such parameters as maximal force Fmax (N) and maximal elongation ɛmax (%) were recorded from typical tension diagrams. The changes of tested specimens' strength and deformation were compared before and after cyclical fatigue tension the conditions of which were 50 cycles up to tension force F equal 24.5 N. The results have shown that changes before and after cyclical fatigue tension are mostly determined by knitting pattern of materials, the orientation of knitted materials strips in bonded seam, but not effected by thermoplastic polyurethane film.
The behaviour of knitted plated jersey materials made from natural and man-made fibres was tested after certain washing conditions. Surface density and thickness of investigated materials differed insignificantly, from 206 g/m 2 up to 222 g/m 2 and from 0.56 mm up to 0.79 mm, respectively. Special device for textile materials hand evaluation based on the principle of pulling of a discshaped specimen through a rounded hole was used. The aim of this study was to investigate the effect of materials' fibre composition and washing conditions upon the changes of hand properties of knitted materials. Analysis of obtained results showed that, during washing, textile materials shrink and become more dense and rough, and their rigidity increases as well. Thus, the most significant effect of 5-cycle washing was obtained for knitted material with bamboo fibres.
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