Collagenase, a matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), is a key regulator in the photoaging process of skin due to the reactive oxygen species generated after exposure to ultraviolet A (UVA). Flavonoid compounds have been demonstrated to possess antioxidant properties, and could be useful in the prevention of photoaging. In this study, to investigate the structure-activity relationship of flavonoid compounds on their antioxidant property and inhibitory effects against the MMP activity, the effects of several flavonoids; myricetin, quercetin, kaempferol, luteolin, apigenin and chrysin, on the reactive oxygen species scavengering activity and inhibitory effect against the MMP activity were examined in vitro and in human dermal fibroblasts induced by UVA. The relative order of antioxidative efficacy, as determined using the 1, 1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) method and the xanthine/xanthine oxidase system, was as follows; flavones: luteolin > apigenin > chrysin, flavonols: myricetin > quercetin > kaempferol, and correlated with the respective number of OH group on their B-ring. In good correlation with the antioxidant properties, the flavonoids inhibited the collagenase activities, in a dose-dependent manner, and the MMP expression. These results suggested the UVA induced antioxidative activity and inhibitory effects of flavonoids on the collagenase in human dermal fibroblasts depends on the number of OH group in the flavonoid structure, and those with a higher number of OH group may be more useful in the prevention of UV stressed skin aging.

Free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS), which are generated by UV irradiation, may cause serious injury to skin cell membranes, DNA and functional proteins. In addition, these agents stimulate the expressions of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), which can degrade most components of the extracellular matrix (ECM), including collagen. In order to develop new anti-photoaging agents, five major components from the extract of Fraxinus chinensis extract (FCE) were identified. Two of the major components of FCE were found to be esculin (11.2%) and esculetin (1.9%). FCE (IC50: 50.0 microg/mL 1, 1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH); 19.8 microg/mL, superoxide anion radical) and esculetin (IC50: 2.1 microg/mL DPPH; 0.6 microg/mL, superoxide anion radical) showed strong antioxidative activities. Of the compounds tested, esculetin showed the strongest scavenging activity against DPPH radicals, followed by superoxide anions from the xanthine/xanthine oxidase system. The intracellular ROS scavenging activity showed that oxidation of 5-(6-)-chloromethyl-2', 7'-dichlorodihydrofluorescein diacetate (CM-H2DCFDA) was effectively inhibited by esculetin, with potent free radical scavenging activity was also shown in UVB-irradiated human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs). Moreover, treatment of UVA-irradiated HDFs with esculetin resulted in dose-dependent decreases in the expression levels of MMP-1 mRNA and protein. From these results, FCE and one of its components, esculetin, were predicted to be potentially useful as ingredients in cosmetics for protecting against photoaging.

Superoxide radical scavenging activity and DPPH radical scavenging activity were assessed in order to evaluate the antioxidant effect of the Sorbus commixta Hedl. extract (SCoE). SCoE was also treated with several carbohydrate-hydrolytic enzymes that significantly increased the total phenol and flavonoid composition of SCoE. The enzymatically treated SCoE was then assessed for antioxidative activity. The most efficient radical scavenging activity was observed when SCoE was treated with -glucanase. The radical scavenging activity of beta-glucanase-treated SCoE (beta-GSCoE) enhanced the viability of human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) exposed to ultraviolet (UV) light. The intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activity of beta-GSCoE was assessed using UVB (20 mJ/cm2)-irradiated HDFs. UVB irradiation increased dichlorofluorescein (DCF) fluorescence, which was measured by a 5-(6-)chloromethyl-2',7'- dichlorodihydrofluorescein diacetate (CM-H2DCFDA). DCF-fluorescence was significantly decreased in the beta-GSCoE-containing culture medium, suggesting that beta-GSCoE scavenges free radicals. The protective effect was further verified by assessing the expression of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) in UVA-irradiated HDFs. The treatment of UVA-irradiated HDFs with beta-GSCoE resulted in a dose-dependent decrease in the expression level of MMP-1 protein and mRNA. These results suggest that beta-GSCoE may mitigate the effects of photoaging in skin by reducing UV-induced adverse skin reactions.

Flavonoids and related compounds exhibit a wide range of useful pharmacological properties but present challenges related to their stability and solubility in commonly available solvents. In this study, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) microcapsules were prepared using a novel polyol-in-oil-in-polyol (P/O/P) emulsion solvent evaporation method as a means of stabilizing the flavonoids, using quercetin as a model flavonoid drug. The morphology of the microcapsules was evaluated using a scanning electron microscope, revealing a spherical shape with a smooth surface. The cross-section image of the PMMA microcapsules prepared with an amphiphilic polymer in the inner polyol phase showed that the microcapsule was filled with several submicron microspheres. The mean diameter varied from 1.03+/-0.12 microm to 2.39+/-0.42 microm, and the encapsulation efficiency ranged from 12.7% to 26.9%. When free quercetin was stored at 42 degrees C, the residual quercetin content gradually decreased to 18% over 28 days as a result of oxidation. However, when encapsulated in PMMA microcapsules with an amphiphilic polymer in the inner polyol phase, the residual quercetin content decreased to just 82%. In-vitro release studies indicated a sustained release pattern throughout the 36-h study. The release kinetics of the microcapsules with an amphiphilic polymer followed a diffusion-controlled mechanism and the microcapsule without amphiphilic polymer followed an anomalous diffusion behaviour. This study suggests that the novel P/O/P emulsion solvent evaporation method can be applied to the encapsulation of flavonoids.

To develop a new potent anti-melanogenic agent, we have conjugated lipoic acid (LA) to poly (ethylene) glycol (PEG) of molecular weight 2000 and examined the effects on inhibition of tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis in B16F10 melanoma cells. The water-soluble LA-PEG 2000 was synthesized from LA and methylated PEG by an esterification reaction in the presence of 1-ethyl-3-(3-dimethylaminopropyl)-carbodiimide. Synthetic LA-PEG 2000 was confirmed by IR and 1 H-NMR spectroscopy. The new conjugate is a highly water-soluble molecule, which has lower cell cytotoxicity than LA. Treatment with LA-PEG 2000 significantly suppressed the biosynthesis of melanin by up to 63% at 0.25 mM and reduced tyrosinase activity by up to 80% at 0.50 mM in B16F10 melanoma cells. Furthermore, Western blot and RT-PCR studies indicated that treatment with LA-PEG 2000 decreased the level of tyrosinase, which is a melanogenic enzyme. Taken together, these results suggest that LA-PEG 2000 may inhibit melanin biosynthesis by down-regulating levels and expression of tyrosinase activity. Therefore, LA-PEG 2000 can be used effectively as a new agent to inhibit melanogenesis, with lower cytotoxicity than LA (parent molecule) in B16F10 melanoma cells.Primarily synthesized within melanocytes, melanin contributes to the pigmentation of the skin, hair, brain and eyes. The complex regulatory control of the biosynthetic machinery involved in melanogenesis includes receptor-mediated pathways activated by hormones, neurotransmitters, cytokines and growth factors, as well as receptor-independent mechanisms activated or modified by nutrients, micromolecules, microelements, pH, cation and anion concentrations, and the oxidoreductive potential (Slominski et al 2004). Melanin production plays an important role in prevention of sun-induced skin injury (Hill et al 1997). However, abnormal hyperpigmentation such as freckles, chloasma, lentigines and other forms of melanin hyperpigmentation can be serious aesthetic problems (Gilchrest 1996). Melanin synthesis is mainly regulated by tyrosinase, which catalyses the rate-limiting reactions (tyrosine hydroxylation to L-3, 4-dihydroxyphenylalanine [L-DOPA], and oxidation of L-DOPA to DOPA-quinone) that are common to both eu-and pheomelanogenesis. The subsequent steps after the formation of DOPA-quinone are responsible for switching between these two types of melanin. The progression of these steps, including spontaneous chemical reactions, depends on the ratio of sulfhydryl compounds such as cysteine and/or glutathione (GSH) within melanocytes. In the absence of cysteine and/or GSH, DOPAquinone is oxidized to form DOPA-chrome as the intermediate product of eumelanin, which results in the advance of eumelanogenesis. In the presence of these compounds, DOPA-quinone is coupled with their SH groups to form cysteinyl DOPA as a precursor of sulfur-containing pigment known as pheomelanin, which corresponds to the progress of pheomelanogenesis.