PurposeThe aim of the research is the development of 3D virtual models of lower female bodies from scanned data of different body types for computer‐aided 3D product development of loose‐fitting garments.Design/methodology/approachIn order to develop reproducible construction of fashionable/functional outerwear (e.g. ladies’ trousers) on the basis of generated scalable 3D virtual female models, 3D‐CAD methods have to be developed. In doing so, the variable parameters are predefined and the block pattern of a trouser design can be modified by changing the parameters for the variety of trouser models. Two‐dimensional (2D) pattern pieces are then automatically generated and modified if necessary. According to morphological changes, the whole process proceeds automatically up to 2D patterns and thus corresponds to a grading in 3D.FindingsThe generated 3D virtual model and trouser design corresponding to a basic design or block pattern can be offered to the garment industry. The task of the designer or stylist is only to define the intended pattern design on the created trouser shell. Therefore, the approach is also very feasible for pattern makers who are not skilled in computer technology. The goal of this research is to provide an indispensable basis for an effective new technology for the construction of fit‐relevant, loose‐fitting garments, and in doing so, further accelerate the textile chain.Originality/valueThis paper provides methods of creating 3D garment design as well as grading in 3D, based on scalable virtual models of female lower bodies, which are worked out using a new German size designation system. Since the data processed for the generation of virtual models derives from direct scan data from women (taking into account different body types), the targeted German population is reflected.

PurposeDrape of the fabric is its ability to hang freely in graceful folds when some area of it is supported over a surface and the rest is unsupported. When two‐dimensional fabrics are converted to three‐dimensional garment forms, a number of operations are required which affect drape behaviour of the fabric while present in garment form. In the present study, the effect of sewing and fusing of interlining on drape behaviour of men's suiting fabrics is investigated.Design/methodology/approach – The effect of sewing and fusing of interlining on drape behaviour of men's suiting fabrics is investigated. Comparisons were also made between different stitches (chain stitch and lock stitch), different seams for lock stitch and different types of interlinings for their effect on drape behaviour of fabrics. In addition to drape coefficient and number of folds, a new drape parameter – average amplitude to average radius (A/r) ratio – was also defined and calculated for drape image geometry.Findings – Drape coefficient has a good to strong correlation with A/r ratio and number of folds for most of the shell, sewn and interlining fused fabrics except for a few cases. A/r defines image in a more descriptive manner than drape coefficient. Drape coefficient changes with the types of seams and stitches used, as well as with the interlining used.Originality/value – This paper provides information on the effects of sewing (seams and stitch types) and fused interlining on drape behaviour of men's suiting fabrics.

The requirements for the clothing industry have altered over the years. The production has to be changed from the standard mass production to the production of fast changing trendy range of products. Causations for this are market saturation, import pressure and constantly changing consumer preferences. In addition to a variety of fashionable materials and styles, high functionality and perfect fit of clothing are requisite. Due to the enormous competitive pressure it is imperative to reduce time and costs of product development in the clothing industry. The aim of the research project is to develop 3D virtual models of lower bodies from the scanned data of different body types as a prerequisite for computer-aided 3D product development of loose-fitting garments. As an example, lady trousers are constructed. In favour of the reproducible construction of fashionable/functional outerwear on the basis of automatically generated models, 3D construction algorithms based on commercially available software solutions have to be compiled and development tools have to be created. In doing so geometrical as well as functional variable parameters are predefined. The trouser can be modified by changing predefined parameters and can then be used as a basis for constructing the variety of trousers. Two-dimensional (2D) pattern pieces are automatically generated and modified if necessary. According to morphological changes the whole process proceeds automatically up to 2D patterns and thus corresponds to a grading in 3D.

PurposeThe casts sector is an important sector for orthopaedic textile products. Plaster and plastics casts are widely used in hospitals, pharmacies and health care centers, but they are heavy, not washable and do not offer a suitable fixation for bone fractures (e.g. hand wrist), especially when operated under different swelling conditions. After decreasing of the swelling, the cast is in a hard form and the stabilization effect of the cast is insufficient due to the occurring of distance between the skin and the cast. The purpose of this paper is to develop a new pneumatic cast that depends on Polyvinylchlorid coated fabric as an outer layer, skin friendly internal layers, an air chamber, and metal braces.Design/methodology/approachFor more comfort, the cast is anatomically formed and the internal layers are made of cotton‐viscose fabrics and Polyester spacer fabrics. The pressure on the injured part can be controlled by using a pneumatic structure.FindingsThe characteristics of the developed pneumatic cast are found to be: easy to use, comfortable, washable, and light weight.Originality/valueThe paper describes the development of a new pneumatic cast that can overcome the difficulties of cast fixation with the injured part of the body: an economic product, that should be easy to use, light weight, comfortable, skin friendly, water resistant, easy to clean, and affordable.