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Abstract. Observations of the temporal evolution of the geometric properties and migration of wave-formed ripples are analyzed in terms of measured suspended sand profiles and water velocity measurements. Six weeks of bedform observations were taken at the sandy (medium to coarse sized sand) LEO-15 site located on Beach Haven ridge during the late summer of 1995 with an autonomous rotary sidescan sonar. During this period, six tropical storms, several of hurricane strength, passed to the east of the study site. Ripples with wavelengths of up to 100 cm and with 15 cm amplitudes were observed. The predominant ripples were found to be wave orbital scale ripples with ripple wavelengths equal to 3/4 of the wave orbital diameter. Although orbital diameters become larger than 130 cm during the maximum wave event, it is unclear if a transition to nonorbital scaling is occurring. Ripple migration is found to be directed primarily onshore at rates of up to 80 cm/day. Suspended transport due to wave motions, calculated by multiplying acoustic backscatter measurements of suspended sand concentrations by flow velocity measurements, are unable to account for a sufficient amount of sand transport to force ripple migration and are in the opposite direction to ripple migration. Thus it is hypothesized that the onshore ripple migration is due to unobserved bedload transport or near-bottom suspended transport. Bedload model calculations forced with measured wave velocities are able to predict the magnitude and direction of transport consistent with observed ripple migration rates. Sequences of ripple pattern temporal evolution are examined showing mechanisms for ripple directional change in response to changing wave direction, as well as ripple wavelength adjustment and erosion due to changing wave orbital diameter and relative wave-to-current velocities.

Abstract-A moored array of current, temperature, conductivity, and pressure sensors was deployed across the Chinese continental shelf and slope in support of the Asian Seas International Acoustics Experiment. The goal of the observations was to quantify the water column variability in order to understand the along-and across-shore low-frequency acoustic propagation in shallow water. The moorings were deployed from April 21-May 19, 2001 and sampled at 1-5 min intervals to capture the full range of temporal variability without aliasing the internal wave field. The dominant oceanographic signal by far was in fact the highly nonlinear internal waves (or solitons) which were generated near the Batan Islands in the Luzon Strait and propagated 485 km across deep water to the observation region. Dubbed trans-basin waves, to distinguish them from other, smaller nonlinear waves generated locally near the shelf break, these waves had amplitudes ranging from 29 to greater than 140 m and were among the largest such waves ever observed in the world's oceans. The waves arrived at the most offshore mooring in two clusters lasting 7-8 days each separated by five days when no waves were observed. Within each cluster, two types of waves arrived which have been named type-a and type-b. The type-a waves had greater amplitude than the type-b waves and arrived with remarkable regularity at the same time each day, 24 h apart. The type-b waves were weaker than the type-a waves, arrived an hour later each day, and generally consisted of a single soliton growing out of the center of the wave packet. Comparison with modeled barotropic tides from the generation region revealed that: 1) The two clusters were generated around the time of the spring tides in the Luzon strait; and 2) The type-a waves were generated on the strong side of the diurnal inequality while the type-b waves were generated on the weaker beat. The position of the Kuroshio intrusion into the Luzon Strait may modulate the strength of the waves being produced. As the waves shoaled, the huge lead solitons first split into two solitons then merged together into a broad region of thermocline depression at depths less than 120 m. Elevation waves sprang up behind them as they continued to propagate onshore. The elevation waves also grew out of regions where the locally-generated internal tide forced the main thermocline down near the bottom. The "critical T. Y. Tang is with the Institute of Oceanography, National Taiwan University, Taipei, ROC.H. point" where the upper and lower layers were equal was a good indicator of when the depression or elevation waves would form, however this was not a static point, but rather varied in both space and time according to the presence or absence of the internal tides and the incoming trans-basin waves themselves.

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Nonlinear internal waves in the ocean are discussed (a) from the standpoint of soliton theory and (b) from the viewpoint of experimental measurements. First, theoretical models for internal solitary waves in the ocean are briefly described. Various nonlinear analytical solutions are treated, commencing with the well-known Boussinesq and Korteweg-de Vries equations. Then certain generalizations are considered, including effects of cubic nonlinearity, Earth's rotation, cylindrical divergence, dissipation, shear flows, and others. Recent theoretical models for strongly nonlinear internal waves are outlined. Second, examples of experimental evidence for the existence of solitons in the upper ocean are presented; the data include radar and optical images and in situ measurements of wave forms, propagation speeds, and dispersion characteristics. Third, and finally, action of internal solitons on sound wave propagation is discussed. This review paper is intended for researchers from diverse backgrounds, including acousticians, who may not be familiar in detail with soliton theory. Thus, it includes an outline of the basics of soliton theory. At the same time, recent theoretical and observational results are described which can also make this review useful for mainstream oceanographers and theoreticians.