Identifying varieties best suited to local food systems requires a comprehensive understanding of varietal performance from field to fork. After conducting four years of field trials to test which varieties of ancient, heritage, and modern wheat grow best on organically managed land, we screened a subset of varieties for bread, pastry, pasta, and cooked grain quality. The varieties evaluated were three lines of emmer (T. turgidum L. ssp. dicoccum Schrank ex Schübl) and eleven lines of common wheat (Triticum aestivum L.), including two modern soft wheat varieties, four soft heritage wheat varieties, four hard modern wheat varieties, and one hard heritage wheat variety. A diverse group of bakers, chefs, researchers, and consumers compared varieties for qualities of interest to regional markets. Participants assessed differences in sensory profiles, pasta making ability, and baking quality for sourdough, matzah crackers, yeast bread, and shortbread cookies. In addition to detecting significant differences among varieties for pasta, sourdough, and pastry quality, participants documented variation in texture and flavor for the evaluated products. By demonstrating which varieties perform best in the field, in the bakery, and on our taste buds, these results can support recommendations that strengthen the revival of local grain economies. Schrank ex Schubl). The baking quality of heritage wheat varieties, however, are poorly documented. Moreover, few scientific studies have compared the sensory attributes of different varieties of heritage, ancient, and modern wheat.
Vindras-Fouillet et al. (2014) found significant differences in artisanal baking and sensory quality among eight farmer-selected wheat populations and one modern variety in France. Similarly, four varieties demonstrated different texture and appearance when baked into wholemeal bread in Germany (Ploeger et al., 2008). Starr et al. (2013) also documented significant differences in texture, appearance, aroma, and flavor of cooked grain from 20 wheat varieties grown in Northern Europe. None of the varieties assessed in these studies, however, are commonly grown in the United States. To inform local markets of the United States, this study compared varieties of organically grown heritage, modern, and ancient wheat for whole-grain technical parameters, artisanal bread baking, pasta making, pastry quality, and sensory attributes.
Materials and methods
Field methodsTo identify varieties that may be best suited to organic production in the northeastern and northcentral United States, we evaluated 40 winter wheat, 24 spring wheat, and 16 spring emmer entries over four years (2012)(2013)(2014)(2015) at three organically certified locations in Willsboro, NY, Freeville, NY, and Rock Springs, PA. Spring wheat and emmer entries were also tested on certified organic acreage in Carrington, ND. All entries were replicated three times and plot sizes varied from 3.78 to 8.91 square meters, depending on location.Agronomic results of these variety trials are published elsewhere...
