Dredging materials from reef flats have become an important source of sand and aggregates for meeting the infrastructure needs of coral-lined shores in subtropical and tropical regions, especially for low-lying atoll islands. Dredging at the reef flats can generate artificial excavation pits, which not only have profound influences on coral ecological stability but also deeply affect the hydrodynamic characteristics of coral reefs. To deepen the understanding of the influence of excavation on the wave hydrodynamics of fringing reefs, the wave propagation, wave transformation, wave setup, and wave runup processes of regular waves on fringing reefs with artificial pits have been systematically analyzed using a non-hydrostatic numerical wave solver (NHWAVE). The effects of some significant factors have been carefully investigated. According to the study findings, the existence of artificial pits can result in a slight decrease in the wave height around the artificial pit. The time-mean maximum of wave runup height at the backreef slope can be reduced to some extent when the artificial pit is present. When placed close to the reef edge, the artificial pit can have noticeable effects on the hydrodynamic characteristics of fringing reefs, particularly the wave setup along the reef flat. It is hoped that the study findings can provide further reference for evaluation of the influences of artificial pits on the wave hydrodynamics of fringing reefs.
The low-lying reef islands distributed in the tropical and subtropical coastal regions are highly vulnerable to the devastating damages of surges and waves during the severe weather events. Over the past two decades, extreme waves have caused tremendous loss and damages to the tropical and subtropical coastal regions. Previous research has focused on the wave hydrodynamics of tsunami waves, as well as regular and irregular waves on the fringing reefs. The complex wave hydrodynamics of extreme waves on the fringing reefs are rarely studied. By applying the nonhydrostatic numerical flow solver (NHWAVE), transformation and breaking process of the crest- and trough-focused wave groups on the fringing reef are analyzed in this study. Influences of the major factors, i.e., water depth, significant wave height, peak wave period, forereef slope and backreef slope, and ridge width, are discussed in detail. The results show that there are complex interactions between the fringing reef and the focused wave group. Breaking waves of high intensity can form at the reef crest. Meanwhile, due to the wave breakings at the reef crest and bottom friction of the reef flat, the local wave height can be effectively reduced. Within the complex wave hydrodynamics of focused waves on the fringing reef, most of the wave energy can be dissipated. In addition, hydrodynamic difference between the crest- and trough-focused waves on the fringing reef is very limited. The research results of this study will further help researchers to better understand the wave hydrodynamics of extreme waves over the fringing reefs.
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