The skin constitutive pigmentation is given by the amount of melanin pigment, its relative composition (eu/pheomelanin) and distribution within the epidermis, and is largely responsible for the sensitivity to UV exposure. Nevertheless, a precise knowledge of melanins in human skin is lacking. We characterized the melanin content of human breast skin samples with variable pigmentations rigorously classified through the Individual Typology Angle (ITA) by image analysis, spectrophotometry after solubilization with Soluene-350 and high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) after chemical degradation. ITA and total melanin content were found correlated, ITA and PTCA (degradation product of DHICA melanin), and TTCA (degradation product of benzothiazole-type pheomelanin) as well but not 4-AHP (degradation product of benzothiazine-type pheomelanin). Results revealed that human epidermis comprises approximately 74% of eumelanin and 26% pheomelanin, regardless of the degree of pigmentation. They also confirm the low content of photoprotective eumelanin among lighter skins thereby explaining the higher sensitivity toward UV exposure.

Sun exposure is responsible for detrimental damage ranging from sunburn to photoaging and skin cancer. This damage is likely to be influenced by constitutive pigmentation. The relationship between ultraviolet (UV) sensitivity and skin color type was analyzed on 42 ex vivo skin samples objectively classified from light to dark skin, based on their values of individual typology angle (ITA) determined by colorimetric parameters. The biologically efficient dose (BED) was determined for each sample by quantifying sunburn cells after exposure to increasing doses of UV solar-simulated radiation. Typical UV-induced biologic markers, other than erythema, such as DNA damage, apoptosis and p53 accumulation, were analyzed. A statistically significant correlation was found between ITA and BED and, ITA and DNA damage. Interestingly, DNA lesions were distributed throughout the whole epidermal layers and the uppermost dermal cells in light, intermediate and tanned skin while they were restricted to suprabasal epidermal layers in brown or dark skin. Our data support, at the cellular level, the relationship between UV sensitivity and skin color type. They emphasize the impact of DNA damage accumulation in basal layer in relation to the prevalence of skin cancer.

Experiments characterizing the biological effects of sun exposure have usually involved solar simulators. However, they addressed the worst case scenario i.e. zenithal sun, rarely found in common outdoor activities. A non-extreme ultraviolet radiation (UV) spectrum referred as “daily UV radiation” (DUVR) with a higher UVA (320–400 nm) to UVB (280–320 nm) irradiance ratio has therefore been defined. In this study, the biological impact of an acute exposure to low physiological doses of DUVR (corresponding to 10 and 20% of the dose received per day in Paris mid-April) on a 3 dimensional reconstructed skin model, was analysed. In such conditions, epidermal and dermal morphological alterations could only be detected after the highest dose of DUVR. We then focused on oxidative stress response induced by DUVR, by analyzing the modulation of mRNA level of 24 markers in parallel in fibroblasts and keratinocytes. DUVR significantly modulated mRNA levels of these markers in both cell types. A cell type differential response was noticed: it was faster in fibroblasts, with a majority of inductions and high levels of modulation in contrast to keratinocyte response. Our results thus revealed a higher sensitivity in response to oxidative stress of dermal fibroblasts although located deeper in the skin, giving new insights into the skin biological events occurring in everyday UV exposure.

De novo dermal epidermal junction morphogenesis was studied in a skin model including dermal fibroblasts and epidermal keratinocytes. Sequential gene expression, protein deposition, and localization of basement membrane zone components were studied during 15 days. The morphogenesis of dermal epidermal junction is characterized by an implementation of the different components and then a subsequent plateau phase occurring at day 11. Three groups of genes were identified depending on cellular origin and expression profile: 1/genes of fibroblastic origin (col I alpha1, col III alpha1, nidogen, and fibrillin 1); 2/genes expressed in fibroblasts and keratinocytes with symmetrical expression pattern between both cell types (col IV alpha1, col VII alpha1, and tenascin C); 3/laminin beta3 only expressed in keratinocytes. Use of modified organotypic models excluding one cell type revealed a tight interplay between fibroblasts and keratinocytes for synthesis and localization of the components of dermal epidermal junction. Keratinocytes downregulated mRNA and proteins of fibroblastic origin, upregulated col VII in fibroblasts and were absolutely required for dermal-epidermal junction localization of fibroblastic proteins. Fibroblasts downregulated mRNA of keratinocytes and were needed for extracellular secretion and correct localization of type VII collagen and laminin 5.

In skin, cohesion between the dermis and the epidermis is ensured by the dermal-epidermal junction which is also required for control of epidermal growth and differentiation. Here we showed that addition of vitamin C optimized the formation of the dermal-epidermal junction in an in vitro human reconstructed skin model leading to a structure closer to that of normal human skin. Compared with controls, vitamin C treatment led to a better organization of basal keratinocytes, an increase in fibroblast number and a faster formation of the dermal-epidermal junction. Vitamin C also accelerated deposition of several basement membrane proteins, like type IV and VII collagens, nidogen, laminin 10/11, procollagens I and III, tenascin C and fibrillin-1 at the dermal-epidermal junction. The mechanism of action of vitamin C was investigated by quantitative polymerase chain reaction in fibroblasts and keratinocytes respectively. Vitamin C effects passed in part through an increase in col I alpha1, col III alpha1 and fibrillin-1 mRNA levels. Effects on the other markers appeared to happen at the translational and/or post-translational level, as illustrated for tenascin C, col IV alpha2 and col VII alpha1 mRNA levels which were reduced by vitamin C in both cell types.