This study aimed to enhance the capability of multiple weave color reproduction for Jacquard textiles. Today, the subtractive color mixing of CMYK color system is being widely used for rendering weave patterns and assorting filling yarn colors. However, as Jacquard color creation involves optical color mixing, the direct application of pigment mixing is limited to corresponding to an artwork that involves red, green, blue and saturated solid black. Since Jacquard colors are realized by opaque and non-blended material of yarns, it requires a different approach of light and pigment mixing to simulate colors of an original image in woven forms. Therefore, in this study, the optimization of weave color reproduction was approached to properly embrace the proposed color gamut of the CMYK model in digital Jacquard textiles. Based on the ink densities of the CMYK color scope, segmentation was applied in reflection of optical thread color mixing to attain optimal weave patterns. A pair of primary color layers was merged by defining a set of rules to classify individual primary and secondary color patterns to designate colored threads in associated regions, and weave structures were designed and aligned to generate varied levels of color shades in weaving form. The correlation between shaded weave structures and the primary color-based weave patterns were matched to present a faithful color reproduction in weaving.
In modern Jacquard weaving, the application of yarn color variety is limited to electronic Jacquard machinery and realizing a wide scope of weave colors can be challenging. Therefore, when reproducing a pictorial image with a small yarn variety, artwork colors are defined by a CMYK (cyan, magenta, yellow, and black) system and its primary color data are used to associate with weave structures. In alignment with a CMYK pattern layout, shaded weave structures are incorporated to expand the accessible gamut of weave colors and natural shading is realized by different cover factors in the warp and weft. The mixing effect of CMYK yarns is intended for resolving the technical limitations of current digital Jacquard weaving. In this study, quantitative research is designed to examine four yarn mixing effects for which pairs of CMYK yarns are superimposed (e.g., [C]+[M], [C]+[Y], [M]+[Y], [C]+[K], [M]+[K], [Y]+[K]) and 90 different weave colors are produced in six groups. Once they are formatted in a standardized size, weave samples are measured by a spectrophotometer and analyzed by three coordinates (L*, a*, and b*) of a CIELAB color system. As shown by the analysis results, the weave colors bear not only varied brightness, hue, and chroma alternations, but also a great similarity to the pigment mixing effect. In application of the color mixing effect, a new way of woven color presentation is achieved and introduced as a new development of Jacquard design.
This study aims to propose optimal weaving conditions for creation of natural shading effect in woven textiles. By applying the weave structure and pattern theories, the two core parts of weaving are explored and examined towards improving realisation of gradient weave colours.When planning experiments, weave repeat sizes from 12-to 30-thread are created into a shaded weave series and compounded in multi-weft figuring method. In terms of weave pattern, a colour spectrum image is designed and its split primary colour layers (e.g. cyan, magenta, yellow and black) are employed as weave pattern. In conjunction with varied weaving conditions, a colour spectrum image is reproduced in 19 different woven forms. In this study, comparative analysis is approached based on the samples resulted from trials and the practical research is explained in details of weave structure and weave pattern specifications to propose the core principle of establishing gradient colour deviation.
Multicolored Jacquard artwork reproduction has been limited by the current setting of weaving machinery. Novel weaving applications have been introduced to overcome these current restrictions. The subtractive cyan, magenta, yellow and black system used for color printing has been important in optical yarn color mixing of Jacquard color production, because a wide scope of weave color production is possible with a small number of weft yarns. Previously, cyan, magenta, and yellow channels have been modified to resolve current restrictions in reproducing saturated black and secondary colors, but these experiments have not been successful. However, the generation of secondary color ranges is possible by mixing a pair of cyan, magenta, and yellow color yarns. In addition, it is feasible to control chroma levels of primary and secondary colors by mixing with a black yarn. Therefore, the potential of using four weft yarn colors is re-examined for the reproduction of multicolored artworks in relation to cost and production efficiency. Based on a mathematical morphology theory, cyan, magenta, and yellow color channels are altered in the use of image processing tools offered by Adobe Photoshop. A pair of the three color channels is combined under mathematical functions and they are modified through four steps. As a result, new cyan, magenta, and yellow color channels are created to optimize optical yarn color mixing effects. This study introduces details of the cyan, magenta, and yellow channel modification process and experiment results that examine the significance of the newly developed cyan, magenta, and yellow color channels.
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