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This study aimed to enhance the capability of multiple weave color reproduction for Jacquard textiles. Today, the subtractive color mixing of CMYK color system is being widely used for rendering weave patterns and assorting filling yarn colors. However, as Jacquard color creation involves optical color mixing, the direct application of pigment mixing is limited to corresponding to an artwork that involves red, green, blue and saturated solid black. Since Jacquard colors are realized by opaque and non-blended material of yarns, it requires a different approach of light and pigment mixing to simulate colors of an original image in woven forms. Therefore, in this study, the optimization of weave color reproduction was approached to properly embrace the proposed color gamut of the CMYK model in digital Jacquard textiles. Based on the ink densities of the CMYK color scope, segmentation was applied in reflection of optical thread color mixing to attain optimal weave patterns. A pair of primary color layers was merged by defining a set of rules to classify individual primary and secondary color patterns to designate colored threads in associated regions, and weave structures were designed and aligned to generate varied levels of color shades in weaving form. The correlation between shaded weave structures and the primary color-based weave patterns were matched to present a faithful color reproduction in weaving.

Inspired by the design method of digital image, based on gamut weaves design and the established weave database, a study has been carried out to reform the traditional design approach of jacquard textiles via the deployment of digital-layered combination design mode towards the creation of digital jacquard. To this end, the structural design method has been reinvented under layered design mode. This article presents an innovative design method called 'full-colour' compound structure design by which digital jacquard fabric is made possible by non-backed structure. This 'full-colour' technique offers a novel-colour shading effect on the surface of a digital jacquard fabric where the colour threads juxtapose in an even orderly fashion, e.g. 1:1, 1:1:1:1, etc. Moreover, this innovative design approach befits well the computer-programmed design that meets the technical requirement of balanced interlacement, and thus fabrics produced by this method pose no problem in mass production. IntroductionThe study of the innovative design of digital jacquard fabric relates to the research field of digital woven fabric. In this research, in particular, the innovation design method for fabric construction has been put forward to enable an expression of a non-backed structure by combining several layers of fabric constructions. Jacquard fabric designed in this way is capable of expressing 'full-colour' effect of colour threads. The thrust of this study enabled the production of digital jacquard fabric that exhibits print-like colour-shading effect.The construction of traditional jacquard fabric could be divided into four categories: single-layer, backed structure (warp-backed, weft-backed), double-layer and multi-layer (Watson, 1977). Backed construction fabric consists face structure and back structure. The colour effect of this kind of fabric is represented only in the face structure because that of the backing structure is being covered. Moreover, when shaded weaves are designed by traditional method, i.e. the interlacing points in a digital jacquard fabric are built up step-by-step by means of layered combination design mode, it can be found that the increase in the number of the shaded weaves increased the compounded weaves on the face of fabric. This increase created yet another phenomenon that covering and no-covering (colouring) appeared among the interlacing points in the compound structure of fabric. As a result, the covering and colouring level of warp and weft threads on the face of fabric is difficult to define. Besides,

Jacquard fabric is regarded as a “high-grade” textile, having intricate, interesting color and texture, and digital image design is the latest technique of computer art in the design field. Merging the design features of jacquard fabrics and digital image, this study was carried out to investigate digital jacquard fabric design in a colorless mode, which is one of the main modes of digital image design; another is that of a colorful mode. In this paper, the design principles and design methods for unconventional digital jacquard fabric design in a colorless mode were analyzed critically based on the application of digital technologies, and in particular, the digital color theory so that with tailor-made structural design, any colorless digital images with certain grays can be designed to form jacquard fabrics directly. The results of this study bring about an innovative design concept in jacquard fabrics and have a significant influence on the future development of jacquard textiles.