Once a beach is eroded by storm waves, it is generally recovered under milder wave conditions. To prevent or reduce damage, it is therefore important to understand the characteristics of the site-specific recovery process. Here, we present the results, based on a data set from a video monitoring system and wave measurements, of the recovery process in a pocketed beach located inside a bay where the shoreline retreated harshly (~12 m, on average, of beach width) during Typhoon TAPAH (T1917) in September 2019. It took about 1.5 years for the beach to be recovered to the level before the typhoon. During this period, the erosion and accretion were repeated, with the pattern highly related to the wave power (Pw); most of the erosion occurred when Pw became greater than 30 kWatt/m, whereas the accretion prevailed when Pw was no greater than 10 kWatt/m. The recovery pattern showed discrepancies between different parts of the beach. The erosion during storm events was most severe in the southern part, whereas the northern shoreline did not significantly change even during TAPAH (T1917). In contrast, the recovery process occurred almost equally at all locations. This discrepancy in the erosion/accretion process was likely due to human intervention, as a shadow zone was formed in the northern end due to the breakwaters, causing disequilibrium in the sediment transport gradient along the shore. The results in this study could be applied in designing the protection plans from severe wave attacks by effectively estimating the size of coastal structures and by correctly arranging the horizontal placement of such interventions or beach nourishment. Although the application of these results should be confined to this specific site, the method using wave energy parameters as criteria can be considered in other areas with similar environments, for future planning of beach protection.
The trend in appearance of storm waves on the east coast of Korea was investigated based on long-term wave data observed at six different stations. At the four wave stations of KIOST (Sokcho, Mukho, Hupo, and Jinha), no notable trend was found during the observation period with respect to the annual average and maximum values of the significant wave height. In addition, the annual number of the appearance of storm waves showed decreasing trend at the three stations except Jinha, where slightly increasing trend of the quantity was recognized. In contrast, at Donghea ocean data buoy of KMA, abruptly increasing trend was found for the annual average and maximum of the significant wave height and for the annual number of the appearance of storm waves as well, demonstrating lack of consistency in the observation data from Donghea buoy of KMA.
Severe shoreline erosions are commonly observed due to the side effects of breakwaters constructed to protect the habitat. These breakwaters can cause wave energy differences behind the structure due to diffraction, inducing longshore sediment transport and resulting in shoreline changes. Therefore, it is essential to correctly simulate the effect of wave transformation in the lee side of structures, but such studies reporting performance of models in the field have been relatively rare. In this study, two wave models of the TELEMAC system were used to investigate the accuracy of modeling the wave transformation effect in a lee area of a breakwater built to secure the harbor’s tranquility, near Jukbyeon Port in Korea, through comparisons with field observations. Two cases of wave conditions with different wave heights and directions were tested. In both cases, the TEL EMAC–ARTEMIS model had lower errors than TELEMAC–TOMAWAC at the onshore wave location, confirming that the phase-resolving ARTEMIS showed better performance in simulating the wave transformation than the phase-averaged TOMAWAC, as expected. However, ARTEMIS had slightly higher errors than TOMAWAC at the offshore location, probably due to the interference by reflected waves from the complex coastlines formed by the different coastal structures. The results also provide various implications learned from the numerical experiments, which can be usefully applied to engineering aspects, such as for the estimation of harbor tranquility.
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