The use of topical retinoids to treat skin disorders and ageing can induce local reactions, while oral retinoids are potent teratogens and produce several unwanted effects. This way, efforts to explore complementary care resources should be supported. Based on this, we evaluate the antiageing effects of a supercritical CO2 extract from Bidens pilosa L. (BPE-CO2A) containing a standardized multicomponent mixture of phytol, linolenic, palmitic, linoleic, and oleic acids. BPE-CO2A was assessed for its effects on human dermal fibroblasts (TGF-β1 and FGF levels using ELISA; collagen, elastin, and glycosaminoglycan by colorimetric assays, and mRNA expression of RXR, RAR, and EGFr by qRT-PCR) and human skin fragments (RAR, RXR, collagen, elastin, and glycosaminoglycan by immunohistochemical analysis). Levels of extracellular matrix elements, TGF-β1 and FGF, and EGFr gene expression were significantly increased by BPE-CO2A. The modulation of RXR and RAR was positively demonstrated after the treatment with BPE-CO2A or phytol, a component of BPE-CO2A. The effects produced by BPE-CO2A were similar to or better than those produced by retinol and retinoic acid. The ability to stimulate extracellular matrix elements, increase growth factors, and modulate retinoid and rexinoid receptors provides a basis for the development of preparation containing BPE-CO2A as an antiageing/skin-repair agent.

Background Hydration is an important factor to promote skin barrier function, metabolism, and appearance. In this process, the presence of aquaglyceroporins, envelope and lipid synthesis, and metabolism proteins are essential to provide greater corneocyte cohesion and to form a barrier avoiding transepidermal water loss. Objective We evaluated the effects of a new topical pigment‐free agent containing an Anadenanthera colubrina polysaccharide‐rich dermocosmetic preparation (ACP) on the aquaporin‐3 (AQP‐3), filaggrin (FLG), involucrin (INV), glucocerebrosidase (GBA), and elongation of very‐long‐chain fatty acid (ELOVL) proteins production in skin human fragments, as well as on the transepidermal water loss in a double‐blind placebo‐controlled clinical trial. Methods AQP3, FLG, INV, GBA, and ELOVL3 levels were measured by immunofluorescence analysis in human skin explants. Clinical trial was conducted to evaluate the effects of ACP 1% and ACP 3% on the transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Results Image and statistical analysis showed that ACP 3% significantly increased at 90% the expression of AQP3. Similarly, ACP 3% was able to promote a significant increase of 68% and 51% in FLG and INV, respectively. ACP 3% produced no effects on the GBA and ELOVL3 proteins. Transepidermal water loss was significantly reduced in human volunteers under treatment with ACP 1% and ACP 3%. Conclusion ACP reduced transepidermal water loss in a clinical trial, promoting human skin hydration. These effects were related to modulation of the AQP3, FLG, and INV as evidenced by immunofluorescence assay. This way, A colubrina polysaccharide‐rich phytopharmaceutical preparation is an effective additive product to skin hydration.

Background: The use of the injectable products for soft tissue augmentation and treatment of skin aging is an uncomfortable, invasive and related to several complications, and chronic reactions, mainly after long-term application. Efforts to develop new topically active anti-aging products with fewer adverse effects are a huge challenge that should be faced. Aims:We evaluated the anti-aging effects of a phytocosmetic preparation containing Thymus vulgaris associated with lecithin (ThymLec) on the facial wrinkles, expression lines, and face oval remodeling using a double-blind placebo-controlled clinical trial and in vitro cell culture assays.Methods: A clinical trial was conducted to evaluate the effects of ThymLec 2% on the area, length, and depth of the perioral and crow's feet wrinkles, nasolabial and smile lines, as well as face oval remodeling in female volunteers using a sophisticated Bio3D Structured-light Scanner. In the in vitro studies using 3T3-L1 mouse embryonic fibroblasts, adiponectin was measured by immunoenzymatic assay, adipogenesis by the AdipoRed reagent method, and the PPAR-γ expression by RT-PCR analysis.Results: Topical treatment with ThymLec 2% reduced facial wrinkles and expression lines promoting a face oval remodeling. In the in vitro studies, ThymLec upregulated the PPAR-γ expression increasing adiponectin production and stimulating the adipogenesis process. Conclusions:The phytocosmetic preparation containing Thymus vulgaris and lecithin is an innovative and safe topical anti-aging product promoting fat tissue augmentation by adipogenesis stimulation via the upregulation of PPAR-γ expression and adiponectin production.

Background: Autophagy is a natural and evolutionary mechanism that reduces cell toxic components and reutilizes metabolites to provide energy and renew cell function, which is linked to a wide range of age-related diseases, including those that affect the skin. Positive modulation of autophagy is useful to treat skin disorders and new active herbal products are potential candidates as autophagy modulators.Aims: The present study aimed to evaluate the effects of a phytocosmetic formulation containing Myrothamnus flabellifolia leaf and Coffea arabica seed plant extracts (MflCas) on the ubiquitin-proteasome and autophagy markers in human dermal fibroblasts, and investigate its topical skin effects in a randomized, simple-blind, and placebo-controlled trial.Methods: Human dermal fibroblasts were used to determine proteasome activity, protein carbonylation, LC3B protein, and lipofuscin production by luminescence and immune-enzymatic assays, and to determinate gene expression of autophagy biomarkers (Atg5, Atg7, EI24, EIF2A, Park2, foxo1, and mTOR) by RT-PCR. A clinical trial was conducted to evaluate the effects of MflCas on the hand, face, and forearms skin features after treatment by 56 days.Results: Topical treatment with MflCas improved several skin features of volunteers, mainly skin aging and pigmentation signals. On the hand skin, MflCas 2% after 56 days of treatment, reduced the spots length (30.8%), skin contrast (42.2%), and increased skin homogeneity (63.2%) and skin lightening effect (1.4%). On the face skin, topical treatment after 56 days reduced the spots length (21.5%), wrinkles area (8.1%), and wrinkles volume (5.6%) with an increment in face skin homogeneity (59.5%). These effects were related to the ability of MflCas to reduce proteasome activity protein carbonylation, and lipofuscin level, increase LC3B production, downregulate Atg7 and mTOR genes, and upregulate Park2 gene expressions. Conclusions:The phytocosmetic preparation containing Myrothamnus flabellifolia leaf and Coffea arabica seed modulated ubiquitin-proteasome and autophagy process,

In addition to dermatological complications, acne can affect the quality of life of individuals in numerous ways, such as employment, social habits and body dissatisfaction. According to our expertise, caprylic acid and propanediol would not have a direct action on Cutibacterium acnes. Despite this, we investigated the existence of a synergistic effect among xylitol, caprylic acid and propanediol as a mixture of compounds representing a single topical active ingredient that could benefit the treatment against acne. In vitro and in vivo assays were performed to challenge and to prove the efficacy of propanediol, xylitol and caprylic acid (PXCA) against acne. PXCA had its MIC challenged against C. acnes (formerly Propionibacterium acnes) and Staphylococcus aureus, resulting in concentrations of 0.125% and 0.25%, respectively, and it also developed antimicrobial activity against C. acnes (time-kill test). PXCA was able to reduce the 5-alpha reductase expression in 24% (p < 0.01) in comparison with the testosterone group. By the end of 28 days of treatment, the compound reduced the skin oiliness, porphyrin amount and the quantity of inflammatory lesions in participants. According to the dermatologist evaluation, PXCA improved the skin’s general appearance, acne presence and size.