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Summary Background Cosmetic products mean any substance or mixture intended to be placed in contact with the external parts of the human body (eg, epidermis, lips) and should not pass to the lower parts and penetrate to the skin. As a part of evaluation of cosmetic safety, the transdermal absorption of substances should be investigated. Materials and Methods In vitro absorption was investigated with Franz diffusion cells on untreated porcine skin and specimens of the same treated with 15%wt. SLS. The integrity of the skin was discerned by gauging transdermal electrical conductivity (TEC), the concentration of caffeine absorbed by the samples of skin membrane by liquid chromatography, which took place by applying an emulsion and/or a gel containing active hydration agents (urea, sodium hyaluronate, and sericin). Results The greatest extent of caffeine penetration was seen for pretreatment with just SLS; similar results were in skin treated with the base gel with 10%wt. urea. In the skin treated with the base emulsion only, the amount of caffeine absorbed was twofold less; this increased after adding the active hydration substances. The values measured for TEC corresponded with the amount of caffeine absorbed. Conclusion The gel proved to be the more potent vehicle for the active ingredient, as it demonstrated greater transdermal caffeine penetration than the emulsions, correlating with the degree of damage to the skin as detected by TEC.

The objective of this paper was to evaluate the effectiveness of ultrasound application through stability assessment of proposed emulsion systems based on novel fats. Emulsions based on modified fat and containing various amount of a thickener were assessed. Stability testing consisted of measurement of mean particle sizes, particle distribution and in determining dispersion indexes of emulsions subjected and not subjected to sonication. Emulsions containing the highest ratio of hemp oil in a fat blend exhibited the lowest mean particle size, most favorable particle size distribution, and minimum dispersity index in measurements both with and without sonication. Reasons for applying ultrasounds to the emulsification process and the advantage of this method over other techniques of emulsification were reconfirmed. The emulsion with interesterified blend of mutton tallow and hemp oil (1:3) wt/wt and 1% wt. of a thickener was found the most stable in mean particle size determination using ultrasounds. Practical application In the authors’ opinion, it is justified to use ultrasounds in preparation of emulsions containing modified fats. Due to the absence of additional compounds like emulsifiers, use of effective homogenization methods is necessary. The authors believe that the limitation of additional components allows us to use proposed products as model emulsion systems in food, cosmetic or even pharmaceutical industries.

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