The shape of FSP present on cheeks shows age-related changes, toward a more elongated aspect, likely linked to a progressively altered (more isotropic) skin surface micro-relief. The new tool Dermascore+ allows foundations to being rapidly differentiated and screened according to their variable effects upon the visual appearance through instrumental, objective depiction of FSP.
Objective
To explore the relationship between skin surface hydration and Trans‐Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) when simultaneously measured.
Methods
Six circular skin areas of the forearms (3 per forearm, 3 cm in diameter) of 12 Caucasian women were used as models. 4 prototypes of formulae of different compositions containing glycerol at different concentrations 7%, 10% and 40% were used as models of hydrating products. One formula (glycerol‐free) was used as control vehicle. Standardized applications of formulae (2 mg/cm2) were performed on 5 skin sites chosen at random, the other being left as bare/control. A recently marketed instrumental device that records the skin surface hydration and TEWL on a small skin area in a simultaneous manner was used. Measurements were carried out at T0 (pre‐application), at 1 h (T1) and 5 h (T5) post applications on two close sites within the 6 defined areas of both forearms.
Results
The new instrumental device allowed to clearly differentiate the 5 formulae (i.e. 7% vs. 10%) with regard the dose effect brought by glycerol (7%, 10%, 40%) and to record their lingering effects at T1 and T5. Both parameters were found significantly and negatively correlated, i.e. the higher the skin hydration, the lower the TEWL. The 40% concentration of glycerol, that leads to the highest skin hydration, brings a drop in the TEWL by about a two‐fold factor. Skin hydration of bare skin and control/vehicle sites showed minor and non‐significant changes along 5 h. Instead, the control/ vehicle slowed down the TEWL to a slight extent.
Conclusion
The use of this new instrumental device shed a new light on the mutual and inverse relationships between skin hydration and TEWL. Results suggest that, at high concentration, glycerol leads to largely increase the water content of both epidermal and dermal compartments, possibly leading to structural changes in the skin relief.
Three recent papers 1-3 described a new Instrument-GPkSin ® (GPOWER) represented in Figure 1-that records, in vivo, both the skin hydration status and the TEWL on the same skin site (a small skin area, ≈1 cm 2) within seconds, since integrating two probes within the same body. As this instrument is connected to a smartphone application via a Bluetooth system, the provided data are immediately transferred, together with date, time of the recording and environmental Temperature (C°). Not only the skin hydration status and TEWL values given by the GPSkin ® were found highly correlated to other validated instruments 4,5-Corneometer ® (Courage and Khazaka Company ™), Tewameter ® (Courage and Khazaka Company ™), Aquaflux AF200 ® (Biox systems ™)-but they were accurate enough to significantly differentiate two formulae containing slightly different and low Glycerol contents (eg, 7% and 10% w/w). In addition, as important finding, this instrument showed that the skin hydration provided by a formula with a very high glycerol content (40%), reduced the TEWL by about 50% on the same skin site. Although of an easy handling (ergonomic, light, etc), the GPSkin ® body has nevertheless to be gently applied perpendicularly onto the skin surface, a positioning needed by the TEWL probe to fully perform. Such verticality is less a limiting factor in the recording of the skin hydration as the two impedance-measuring electrodes (located in the skin-contacting crown) are always closely connected to the skin surface. These conditions were met in two previously quoted studies 1,3
This study assessed the efficacy and tolerability of M89 in patients with rosacea associated with erythema and sensitive skin. Methods: Intra-individual study in a split-face design comparing after 30 days M89 twice daily and usual skin care in 20 adult subjects with rosacea and sensitive skin. M89 contains 89% Vichy volcanic mineralizing water (VVMW) and 0.4% hyaluronic acid. It is hypoallergenic and contains no perfume and this convenes in rosacea. Contained minerals reinforce the natural defences of the skin in restoring the natural skin barrier, stimulating antioxidant activity and reducing inflammation, commonly observed in subjects with rosacea. Clinical evaluations included assessment of erythema, desquamation, papules and pustules, skin tightness, dryness, burning sensation, itching, stinging and stinging test as well as local tolerability. Instrumental evaluations included skin hydration and TEWL. Subject satisfaction was assessed at Days 15 and 30. Demodex density was assessed at Day 30. Results: A significant superiority of M89 over the standard skin care was observed for erythema, skin tightness and dryness (all P≤0.05) as early as Day 15, the skin stinging test was significantly in favour of M89 (P<0.05 at Day 15 and P<0.01 at Day 30) and for skin hydration (P<0.0001) at Day 15 and 30 with no difference in mean Demodex density between M89 and usual skin care after 30 days. Tolerance was excellent and subject satisfaction very high. Conclusion: Study results concerning M89 are encouraging for its use either alone or as an adjuvant daily skin care to topical medication in patients with persistent centrofacial erythema of rosacea with no more than 3 papules and pustules.
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