Objectives
In view of the lack of studies about the morphological and structural changes caused by solar radiation in young people, the aim of the present study was to evaluate the photoageing‐related changes in the skin of different age groups by biophysical and imaging techniques.
Methods
Forty‐four healthy female subjects were divided into two age groups: Group 1 (G1): 18–35 years old and Group 2 (G2): 40–60 years old. The skin of malar region of the face was evaluated in terms of mechanical properties, disorder in the pigmentation pattern, morphological and structural changes using the Cutometer®, Colorimeter®, Visioface® and Dermascan C® devices and reflectance confocal microscopy (Vivascope®).
Results
The results showed that the main changes in the skin of G1 were related to the pigmentation pattern, the papilla format and depletion of thin collagen fibres. These alterations were also observed in the skin of G2, but with more pronounced effects.
Conclusion
The knowledge about the skin changes caused by photoageing obtained in this study is very important for the development of dermocosmetic products for more effective treatments particularly focused on this type of skin. Finally, objective characterization of photoageing showed the importance of photoprotective habits since the first years of life in order to retard the appearance of skin changes caused by solar radiation.
Photoprotective formulations containing substances with antioxidant properties in combination have been used as a strategy for the improvement of photoaged skin conditions. However, there is a lack of studies evaluating the clinical efficacy of these substances in young women with signs of photoaging. Thus, the objective of the present study was to evaluate the clinical efficacy of sunscreens and cosmetic formulations containing ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and rice peptides for the improvement of skin photoaging in young women. A double‐blind, randomized placebo‐controlled clinical efficacy study was conducted on 60 female subjects aged 20–30 years with skin changes related to photoaging and without photoprotective habits. The hydrolipidic layer conditions and structural and morphological characteristics of the skin were evaluated by biophysical and skin imaging techniques. The results showed that the daily use of the formulations under study improved the skin conditions by increasing skin hydration and dermis echogenicity. In addition, the application of the active substances reduced skin hyperpigmentation and increased epidermal cell renewal. In summary, the present study showed the importance of daily application of sunscreens and formulations with antioxidant properties for the prevention and attenuation of skin changes related to photoaging in young women.
The presence of sunscreens had a negative influence on immediate skin hydration and TEWL. On the other hand, it positively influenced parameters related to the physical properties of the multifunctional formulation and skin microrelief. Thus, we conclude that the influence of UV filters on the development of cosmetic formulations is an important factor to be considered because it can have either positive or negative effect on the efficacy of the product.
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