To formulate a consumer-acceptable cosmetic product, numerous demands have to be fulfilled, and as the most important, efficacy (both real and perceived), adequate aesthetic (visual perception) and all sensorial characteristics have to be achieved. In this study, four model water-in-oil creams intended for hand care, varying in one emollient component, were submitted to rheological, sensory and textural characterization, and their efficacy was evaluated in in vivo study on human volunteers. Our results indicate that certain alteration restricted to the oil phase induced a change in all investigated characteristics, showing that each instrumental measurement can be used as a sensitive tool in the characterization of cream samples. Regarding the correlation between physical measurements and certain sensory attributes, it is possible to formulate a product with specific sensory characteristics by using pre-defined rheological or textural parameters. To obtain a complete sensory profile of a cosmetic product, a detailed sensory evaluation should be carried out according to the existing standard practices, which are both time- and money-consuming. However, a modified sensory study could be useful for fast in-line screening along with instrumental characterization of a novel cosmetic emulsion product and could be particularly helpful in the process of distinguishing a single formulation from several differing in one component.

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The objective of this work was to investigate and profoundly characterize low-energy nanoemulsions as multifunctional carriers, with slight reference to dermal administration. An evidence-based approach was offered for deepening the knowledge on their formation via spontaneous emulsification. Curcumin, a compound of natural origin, potentially powerful therapeutic, was chosen as a model API. Due to curcumin's demanding properties (instability, poor solubility, low permeability), its potentials remain unreached. Low-energy nanoemulsions were considered carriers capable of overcoming imposed obstacles. Formulation consisting of Polysorbate 80 and soybean lecithin as stabilizers (9:1, 10%), medium-chain triglycerides as the oil phase (10%) and ultrapure water was selected for curcumin incorporation in 3 different concentrations (1, 2 and 3 mg/mL). Physicochemical stability was demonstrated during 3 months of monitoring (mean droplet size: 111.3-146.8 nm; PDI < 0.2; pH: 4.73-5.73). Curcumin's release from developed vehicles followed Higuchi's kinetics. DPPH (IC50 = 0.1187 mg/mL) and FRAP (1.19 ± 0.02 mmol/g) assays confirmed that curcumin acts as a potent antioxidant through different mechanisms, with no alterations after incorporation in the formulation. High biocompatibility in line with antigenotoxic activity of curcumin-loaded formulations (protective and reparative) was estimated through Comet assay. A multidisciplinary approach is needed to fully characterize developed systems, directing them to more concrete application possibilities.

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This paper describes design and evaluation of parenteral lecithin-based nanoemulsions intended for brain delivery of risperidone, a poorly water-soluble psychopharmacological drug. The nanoemulsions were prepared through cold/hot high pressure homogenization and characterized regarding droplet size, polydispersity, surface charge, morphology, drug-vehicle interactions, and physical stability. To estimate the simultaneous influence of nanoemulsion formulation and preparation parameters--co-emulsifier type, aqueous phase type, homogenization temperature--on the critical quality attributes of developed nanoemulsions, a general factorial experimental design was applied. From the established design space and stability data, promising risperidone-loaded nanoemulsions (mean size about 160 nm, size distribution <0.15, zeta potential around -50 mV), containing sodium oleate in the aqueous phase and polysorbate 80, poloxamer 188 or Solutol(®) HS15 as co-emulsifier, were produced by hot homogenization and their ability to improve risperidone delivery to the brain was assessed in rats. Pharmacokinetic study demonstrated erratic brain profiles of risperidone following intraperitoneal administration in selected nanoemulsions, most probably due to their different droplet surface properties (different composition of the stabilizing layer). Namely, polysorbate 80-costabilized nanoemulsion showed increased (1.4-7.4-fold higher) risperidone brain availability compared to other nanoemulsions and drug solution, suggesting this nanoemulsion as a promising carrier worth exploring further for brain targeting.