The use of vegetable butters and oils shows promising results in the treatment of skin wounds, as they have an effective impact on the phases of the wound-healing process through their antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidative activities and by promoting cell proliferation, increasing collagen synthesis, stimulating dermal reconstruction, and repairing the skin's lipid barrier function.In this article, in vitro and in vivo studies of argan (Argania spinosa), avocado (Persea americana), black cumin (Nigella sativa), calophyllum (Calophyllum inophyllum), coconut (Cocos nucifera), cranberry (Vaccinium macrocarpon), grape (Vitis vinifera), green coffee (Coffea arabica), lentisk (Pistacia lentiscus), linseed (Linum usitatissimum), lucuma (Pouteria lucuma), mango (Mangifera indica), olive (Olea europaea), pomegranate (Punica granatum), pumpkin (Cucurbita pepo), rapeseed (Brassica napus), sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides), and sunflower (Helianthus annuus) oils were reviewed. In many cases, vegetable oils proved to be more effective than synthetic wound-healing compounds used as controls.The fatty-acid components of vegetable oils are assumed to play a major role in the wound-healing process, in particular polyunsaturated fatty acids such as linoleic acid.Evidence shows that oils with a higher linoleic to oleic acid ratio are more effective for lipid barrier repair. However, in depth studies are needed to gain knowledge about vegetable oils' effects on the skin and vice versa. KEYWORDSfatty acids, skinskin woundskin wound healingvegetable buttersvegetable oils

While the chemical composition of vegetable butters and oils has been studied in detail, there is limited knowledge about their mechanisms of action after application on the skin. To understand their dermal effects better, 27 clinical studies evaluating 17 vegetable oils (almond, argan, avocado, borage, coconut, evening primrose, kukui, marula, mustard, neem, olive, rapeseed, sacha inchi, safflower, shea butter, soybean and sunflower oils) were reviewed in this research. The reviewed studies focused on non-affected skin, infant skin, psoriasis, xerosis, UVB-induced erythema, atopic dermatitis, molluscum contagiosum, tungiasis, scars, striae and striae gravidarum. We conclude that in inflammation-affected skin, vegetable oils with a high content of oleic acid, together with the lack of or a low linoleic acid content, may cause additional structural damage of the stratum corneum, while oils high in linoleic acid and saturated fatty acids may express positive effects. Non-affected skin, in contrast, may not react negatively to oils high in oleic acid. However, the frequency and duration of an oil’s use must be considered an important factor that may accelerate or enhance the negative effects on the skin’s structural integrity.

No abstract

Research on new, untapped seed oil sources is receiving increased attention. In this study, 18 different seed samples of Tilia cordata and Tilia platyphyllos from various locations in Slovenia were collected and oil was extracted. The compositions of triglyceride fatty acids and unsaponifiable compounds were determined using GC-MS, while antioxidant activity was evaluated using the DPPH method. The oil content in the seeds varied significantly, from 9.1% to 21.7%. Linoleic acid (50–60%) was found to be the predominant fatty acid, followed by oleic acid (18–22%) and palmitic acid (8–9%). Characteristic cyclopropene fatty acids (sterculic, dihydrosterculic and malvalic acids) were present in the average range of 4–8.4%. Antioxidant activity ranged from 8.9% to 65.5%, and was higher, on average, for T. platyphyllos. Higher antioxidant activity was closely correlated with higher γ-tocopherol contents. Statistically significant correlations were confirmed between antioxidant activity and γ-tocopherol, between Δ-tocopherol and phytol, between stigmasterol and β-sitosterol and between squalene and malvalic acid. Tilia oil may be of great interest for cosmetic and dermal preparations. It is, however, not considered a good source of dietary fatty acids due to the undesired, significant content of omega-6 fatty acids.