Pigmentation reflects skin darkening caused by melanin production, but excessive melanin synthesis may cause problems, such as melasma, solar lentigo, dark spots, and freckles. Considerable effort has been devoted to alleviating these undesired symptoms through the development of safe and effective depigmenting agents. Coumestrol, a plant-derived natural isoflavone with an estrogen-like structure and actions, is known to have anti-aging ability, but its potential depigmenting efficacy has not been evaluated. In the present study, we investigated the effects of coumestrol on melanin synthesis in normal melan-a murine melanocytes. Coumestrol significantly reduced melanin synthesis in a concentration-dependent manner up to a concentration of 25 µM without causing cytotoxicity. It also brightened tissue in an artificial skin model (MelanoDerm) that incorporates both human keratinocytes and melanocytes. Interestingly, although coumestrol did not inhibit tyrosinase activity or transcript level in melan-a cells, it clearly decreased the expression level of tyrosinase protein at a concentration of 25 µM. This coumestrol-induced reduction in tyrosinase protein levels was prevented by pretreatment with the proteasome inhibitor MG-132 or the lysosomal proteolysis inhibitor chloroquine. Collectively, our findings indicate that coumestrol exerts an inhibitory effect on melanin synthesis in melan-a cells, at least in part, through degradation of tyrosinase. These findings suggest that coumestrol is a good candidate for use in depigmentary reagents from a cosmetic and clinical perspective.

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Background/Aims: Excessive melanogenesis often causes unaesthetic hyperpigmentation. In a previous report, our group introduced a newly synthesized depigmentary agent, Melasolv™ (3,4,5-trimethoxycinnamate thymol ester). In this study, we demonstrated the significant whitening efficacy of Melasolv using various melanocytes and human skin equivalents as in vitro experimental systems. Methods: The depigmentary effect of Melasolv was tested in melan-a cells (immortalized normal murine melanocytes), α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-stimulated B16 murine melanoma cells, primary normal human melanocytes (NHMs), and human skin equivalent (MelanoDerm). The whitening efficacy of Melasolv was further demonstrated by photography, time-lapse microscopy, Fontana-Masson (F&M) staining, and 2-photon microscopy. Results: Melasolv significantly inhibited melanogenesis in the melan-a and α-MSH-stimulated B16 cells. In human systems, Melasolv also clearly showed a whitening effect in NHMs and human skin equivalent, reflecting a decrease in melanin content. F&M staining and 2-photon microscopy revealed that Melasolv suppressed melanin transfer into multiple epidermal layers from melanocytes as well as melanin synthesis in human skin equivalent. Conclusion: Our study showed that Melasolv clearly exerts a whitening effect on various melanocytes and human skin equivalent. These results suggest the possibility that Melasolv can be used as a depigmentary agent to treat pigmentary disorders as well as an active ingredient in cosmetics to increase whitening efficacy.

Accessible triterpenoids of ursane and lupane series, the flavonoid dihydroquercetin and their synthetic derivatives with polar substituentss were tested in vitro for inhibition of collagenase 1 (MMP-1) in UVB irradiation assay. Ursolic acid and uvaol disuccinate were the most active inhibitors in the ursane series. In the lupane series, the best inhibition was manifested by carboxymethyl ester of betulonic acid and betulin succinates. Down- regulation of MMP-1 by dihydroquercetin and its synthetic derivatives surpassed the activity of a standard (retinoic acid).

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