Professor Albert0 Barella passed a \~* a j 011 hfmdi 30, 2001. This paper is dedicated to Iiis rneniory. ABSTRACTThe abrasion resistance of different wool and blended fabrics is measured with the Martindale wear and abrasion tester, the abrasion kinetics is identified by the shape of the mass loss curve versus abrasion cycles up to yam breakage. A concave kinetic curve shows a low initial weight loss rate, which continues to increase throughout the process up to the end. A convex kinetic curve begins with a high initial weight loss rate, which continues to decrease throughout the process. The third kinetic curve shows an almost linear relationship between mass loss and abrasion cycles up to yarn breakage. Due to the long time required for the abrasion test to yarn breakage, a simplified method is used based on the determination of mass loss up to 5000 abrasion cycles. The initial mass loss rate and the mean value of this rate throughout the 5000 abrasion cycles (ix., the mean abrasion gradient) seem to be good estimates of the surface and structural abrasion degradation of the fabrics, and they show a strong relationship with the structural parameters of the fabrics.Fabric rubbing, scraping, and wearing against itself or against other abrasive surfaces produces abrasion in wear. As expected, abrasion first modifies the fabric surface and then affects the internal structure of the fabric, damaging it. Abrasion resistance can be measured according to different criteria. Probably the most widely used is the number of cycles until fabric breakage or a hole occurs, but it can also be measured by the weight loss of the fabric after a given number of abrasion cycles. Another accepted method is to determine the strength loss caused by a selected number of abrasion cycles or, more properly, a graph of abrasion cycles versus strength loss.Abrasion in wear is not easy to define, given the variations existing between wearers. Such variability should therefore be borne in mind when establishing a correlation between wearers and abrasion. Thus, some wearers can "wear out" a "good" fabric in a 100 hours, whereas other users will not wear out a "poor" fabric, even after 1000 hours. In accordance with the ASTM Standards, there are three methods based on different measuring principles: the rotary platform [3], the flexing trial [4] and abrasion over an inflated membrane [5]. The British Standards use the Martindale wear and abrasion tester [ 6 ] , and abrasion resistance can be measured according to two different principles. The first corresponds to the number of cycles needed to produce yarn breakage, and the second one is based on a calculation of the average rate of mass loss of the fabric. This methodology is based on a determination of the number of cycles needed to break two yarns by abfasion, and then the mass loss is measured in three stages of approximately 25,50, and 75% of the number of cycles needed to break the yarns. A graph of mass loss as a function of the number

In rhis paper, the authors examine the relationship between the sewability and the structural, physical, and FAST characteristics of wool and wool-blend woven fabrics. Forty wool and wool-btend woven fabrics were studied, and, in particular, tbe influence ofthe sewing-needle type and diameter was examined. Multiple-regression techniques were used to identify the relationships between these variables and sewability.

ABSTRACT:Viscoelastic models were employed to analyze the stress-strain behavior of cotton, acrylic, and polyester yarns. The potential model and the modified Maxwell model gave the best fits as regards the stress-strain behavior of these yarns. The results of the potential model resembled those of the modified Maxwell model with an infinite relaxation time. The potential model is suitable for explaining the rearrangement undergone by the yarns when no slippage between fibers under strain occurs. When slippage occurs, Maxwell models are able to explain the stress-strain behavior of the yarns.

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