The goal of this study was to investigate the efficacy and the safety of grape pomace (Vitis labrusca L.) obtained from the winemaking process as an antioxidant raw material for cosmetic formulations. Grape pomace was dried and submitted to extraction with solvents. The extracts were filtered and freeze-dried. The extraction carried out with 75% acetone-water showed a better yield (1.9 g·g−1). High performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) analysis confirmed the presence of ellagic acid as an active biocompound in the extracts. The Total phenolic content of freeze-dried extracts reached 69.83 ± 1.02 mg for 75% acetone-water system. Antioxidant activity determined by the 2,2-Diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) method revealed there was no statistical difference between the extract (EC50 6.9 ± 0.21) and butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) (EC50 7.6 ± 0.71). Results of cytotoxicity showed that extracts from grape pomace were safe, even at the highest concentration tested (200 mg·mL−1) against the 3T3 cell line. Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) analysis revealed that there were no morphological cell changes of cells treated. Cytoprotection of cells towards the oxidation promoted by the peroxide solution was observed in the lowest concentration tested (0.73 mg·mL−1). Grape pomace from the winemaking process revealed a significant antioxidant activity attributed to its biocompounds. The safety and efficacy of extracts of grape pomace as raw material for cosmetic formulations was proposed through cell culture assays.
Blackberry fruit (Rubus spp. L., Rosaceae) is a source of natural antioxidants for cosmetic products due to its abundance of phenolic compounds. The aim of the present study was to characterize blackberry extracts of the cultivars 'Tupy', 'Guarani', and 'Xavante' and to develop niosomes loaded with blackberry extracts for future applications in cosmetic formulations. After fruit collection at the Experimental Central Stations of the Federal University of Paraná, Quatro Barras, Brazil, the extracts were solubilized in different solvents. The choice of extraction solvent and blackberry cultivar was established by analysis to evaluate the total phenolic content, radical scavenging capacity, and chemical characterization by ultra-performance liquid chromatography couple to quadrupole time-of-flight-mass spectrometry. These tests revealed that fruits of Rubus 'Xavante' had the highest potential to be used as an active cosmetic ingredient. Niosomes formulated with the acetone/water extract obtained from the fruit of this cultivar showed both good performance and encapsulation efficiency. The results indicate that this type of niosome can be considered a promising delivery system with the potential to improve skin absorption, in addition to the antioxidant, anti-aging, and UV protective activities of the polyphenol-rich blackberry extracts.
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